metal prep questions second attempt - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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metal prep questions second attempt

Thanks for all the replies to question 1.0.

Man, this has taken me over an hour to figure out and still not sure I have it right. Like why is the image so large? Google photos doesn't make it easy. Had to use a third party tool to generate the link. Sheesh...

Anyway, here is the car. I was going to use the Eastwood SCT to get it more to bare metal. I was recommended Europrime from Wesco as a direct to metal primer.

My big question was how to clean before priming and what do do about the drip rails.

Thanks in advance. Rodney

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney001 View Post
Thanks for all the replies to question 1.0.

Man, this has taken me over an hour to figure out and still not sure I have it right. Like why is the image so large? Google photos doesn't make it easy. Had to use a third party tool to generate the link. Sheesh...

Anyway, here is the car. I was going to use the Eastwood SCT to get it more to bare metal. I was recommended Europrime from Wesco as a direct to metal primer.

My big question was how to clean before priming and what do do about the drip rails.

Thanks in advance. Rodney

I would try "zip strip" or "air craft" paint remover in the drip rail areas, then scrape out the channel and hand sand it. Perhaps zip strip on the paint that's left as well before you use the Eastwood SCT sander would help with removal also. If your not familiar with zip strip let us know as it can be some nasty stuff an we could offer some tips.

I'd check the prep directions on your primer of choice to be sure, but basic steps are: Sand surface with 80 grit sand paper, blow off with compressed air, wipe all surfaces with a cleaner/degreaser and let dry, then wipe surface with a tack cloth right before spraying.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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I have been using aircraft stripper for the jams. The new non-methyl stuff is pretty useless but I had a can of the old nasty stuff that does the job.

Do I fill the drip rail with seam sealer and then prime over that?

Going to see if I can get an hour of paint prep in before the light fades.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 09:19 PM
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You can get the old sealer out with a wire brush. Clean the surfaces thoroughly with a good quality wax & grease remover (petroleum naphtha). I use Eastwood/Kirker epoxy primer over properly applied Picklex20 as a metal conditioner. Prime first, then seam seal.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 10:04 AM
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Remove those hinges so you can get the jamb clean.
I had my body media blasted, so the sealer wasn't a problem. A wire wheel like Woodchuck recommended, will work wonders.
Before shooting the epoxy coat, clean it well with wax and grease remover, and when you think it's clean enough, clean it one more time.
I used a Kevin Tetz tip and did a final wipe with alcohol.
Seal it up using a quality epoxy, and you've completed the first step to a new paint job.
Now, just 400 more steps to go.
If you're not sure of something, just post your question. You're sure to get a good answer(s) here.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the tips

I think Iíll bite the bullet and shoot an epoxy primer before using the high build primer that I was told could go over bare metal. I just have to grind it off the fenders and trunk lid that i already did. One step forward and two back.

I also ordered some picklex20. Not cheap.

Is a wire wheel the best way to get into the jams? Lots of little nooks and crannies.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 09:00 PM
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I use a steel wire wheel in areas where the surface is rough or rusty and a brass wheel where I need to be "gentler" with the metal, such as inner door shells. I used brass on my jambs 'cause I didn't want to leave any scratches behind. No, Picklex20 isn't cheap but you don't need to soak the surface, either. A fine spray mist to dampen the surface is all that is needed. I would suggest removing as much old paint and filler as possible as old filler WILL soak up whatever you wipe down the surface with and can affect whatever you put over it. I'd wait 24 hours or so before spraying EP after wiping down so everything has a chance to evaporate. Unless you live in a rainforest the Picklex20 will more than handle any chance of flash rust.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Is this clean enough for picklex20? I found a rust hole behind the rear tire that I need to weld a patch for so it was useful to grind off the old primer. Still need to pull the glass to get behind the gaskets and clean up some areas with a wheel that I couldn't reach with the SCT tool.

The grinder pad is about 36 grit. What grit does should I buff with before epoxy priming?

Thanks Rodney


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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 11:18 AM
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After the 36 grit, go to an 80. That will give the epoxy something to hold on to and you won't have to worry about any 36 grit scratches showing through.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 09:45 PM
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Looking good. Don't forget to take that A-pillar down to bare metal too! As far as surface finish for EP I D/A with 320... as per the EP's tech sheet. Check the tech sheet for whatever EP you decide upon to make sure you're using it right.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 11:29 PM
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Looks like you're on the right track......
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the encouragement. Iím going to do the welding and additional prep this weekend while i wait for the picklex to arrive.

How do you clean the picklex before shooting epoxy primer? I think there may be a few weeks delay after the picklex goes on until I can get everything masked off to shoot the primer and I didnít want to wash it off with a solvent.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney001 View Post
Thanks for the encouragement. Iím going to do the welding and additional prep this weekend while i wait for the picklex to arrive.

How do you clean the picklex before shooting epoxy primer? I think there may be a few weeks delay after the picklex goes on until I can get everything masked off to shoot the primer and I didnít want to wash it off with a solvent.
That depends on the primer being used. Some products, like SPI say to not spray over phosphoric acid that hasn't been neutralized. Picklex20 is light (20%) on PA so it's hard to say.... I use Eastwood/Kirker with no issues.... apply Picklex20 per directions, which is pretty much "mist" on and let sit for 2 minutes then wipe off the excess and let dry. Has never given me a problem.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 11:09 AM
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I've used both Picklex20 and Ospho, and the Picklex20 seems to be the stronger solution of the two. The fumes coming off the container are much stronger than Ospho and proper care should be utilized. Picklex20 is also about double the cost of Ospho.

John

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Went to my local auto paint shop to get epoxy primer and it was pretty clear the guys behind the counter didn't know much. They kept telling me that epoxy primer isn't sandable but I told them what I wanted to do was scuff it after doing some bodywork to apply a high build primer over the top. Then they showed me something that was $400/gallon.

Will Eastwood DTM Epoxy primer work over picklex20? They only difference between the mixes seems to be the color. Seems a better deal at about $120/gallon. Just checking before I hit the buy button.

Thanks in advance. Rodney
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