OTC Spring Compressor - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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OTC Spring Compressor

I've used the "hook" style spring compressor twice in my life and both times I didn't like it (call me a coward, it's fine). So I found an OTC 7054B compressor on the cheap to take out my springs for the third time. The instructions show that the barrel nut should be on the bottom, under the upper control arm, but to me it seems easier to flip that and place the barrel nut facing through the top of the shock tower. Anyone have experience with this compressor?

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:53 AM
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I have that same spring tool and I guess I did not read the instructions. I use it with the nut on top. It works so much better/safer that the hook style.

66 Convertible. Full restoration in the works
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:05 AM
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I borrow a similar plate style from Autozone and put the nut at the top of the tower.

67 Hardtop, brought it back to a driver
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 07:02 AM
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Huh...I have the same tool and must not have read the directions either. iiirc, this is pretty much the same tool as in the Shop Manual, and I think I followed those instructions. I donít think it can be done from below with the spring perches there.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 07:55 AM
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I am so getting something like that before I ever take those springs off again.

So I've never used that particular tool, but since Knapper brought it up here's what the shop manual says to do with the Ford version of it:
67-spring_remover.jpg
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 08:11 AM
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I never cared for the hook style either, plates just so much easier to use and a more positive compression design for my money and fingers.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses, everyone. I took another look at the instruction sheet and realized they have the spring resting on the LCA. So that's not even close to our cars anyway (looks more like a Fox Body Mustang). And I wasn't even thinking about the spring perch. I don't mind doing basically anything on this car, but the springs always give me anxiety so I wasn't thinking about the problem logically.


Based on the shop manual, does everyone keep the top plate above the shock tower? If so I assume you compress and hold the spring, remove the UCA, and then decompress the spring?

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:12 PM
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I actually place the top plate on one of the coils below the shock tower cap. I feel pretty secure with this compressor give the sizing of the plate and the shaft being internal, I donít see how it could accidentally release.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:46 PM
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I have the same tool and used it a couple of times. Remove the shocks and insert the tool. Make sure the lower plate is down as far as possible and the upper is up as far as possible. Makes your life easier. I compress the spring and always remove it from the tower. Lay it down slowly and release the tension. I never worked on the UCA while the spring is in the tower. I trust the tool, but why taking any risk, so fast to remove the coil.


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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 03:22 PM
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I've got to replace my coil springs this winter. Y'all wouldn't recommend using the spring compressor with the hooks on it?

1966 Mustang 2-Door Coupe
Engine: 1980 302 bored 0.060, so 311 ci. 351 heads, Holley 670 cfm 4 barrel, Eldebrock Torker II 289 intake, Competition Cam 276 duration 490 lift.
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Non-numbers matching

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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It's not that they don't work, I'm just being picky. I've used them on each side twice to remove and install the springs. Every time there was at least one point where the spring popped a little bit adjusting into place. It just unnerves me thinking about getting hit with a very heavy spring that just happened to become dislodged. I admit to being overly cautious since most of the times these springs are removed it's either the double hook or the hook and fork tool being used.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:18 PM
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I prefer the double-hook type. Never had any issues with it, though it's getting harder to find as far as borrowed tools from the parts store go. Last time I used a different one that had a fork type end on it. I actually had to get a 4" length of pipe to use as a spacer to get it to work. It's hard to describe. Suffice it to say, I'd rather just have the hooks. It's simple and it works.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 04:48 PM
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Funny you posted about this today as UPS just dropped off that exact tool and I'll be using it later this week! I've never felt 100% safe with any other spring compressors so I'm hoping this helps with peace of mind.

1967 Mustang C-code Coupe
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 08:03 PM
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FWIW, hereís what I did, from Autozone:




'68 Mustang Hardtop, 302, C4
AKA "Dr. Wolf"

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakeTX View Post
I prefer the double-hook type. Never had any issues with it, though it's getting harder to find as far as borrowed tools from the parts store go. Last time I used a different one that had a fork type end on it. I actually had to get a 4" length of pipe to use as a spacer to get it to work. It's hard to describe. Suffice it to say, I'd rather just have the hooks. It's simple and it works.
Itís not hard to describe to me, because I also used a 4 inch pipe nipple as a spacer.


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