Under Dash Insulation - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Under Dash Insulation

Has anyone ever tried to install new insulation under and behind the dash? Mine has fallen out and I really don't want to remove the entire dash if at all possible. If anyone has done this how did it go and do you have recommendations and suggestions?
Thanks!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 05:53 PM
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Are you asking about the firewall insulation?

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Yes
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 08:25 PM
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You have to remove the console and AC if you have it, remove the heater box, defroster plenum, and some parts of the accelerator linkage but it's doable. The firewall mat has some push-through retainers and some screws holding it in if I recall. The current car I'm working on has no mat, or only pieces of one, because a squirrel or something shredded it. So we're putting in a peel-and-stick sound deadener up there instead, maybe cover it with a black mat or the outer part of a stock mat for original looks.

My 1st car...
'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories

Older son's 1st car...
'66 Emberglo / Parchment deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Dealer A/C • Console
•Dual Exhaust • Power Steering

Younger son's 1st car...
'66 Nightmist / Blue & white deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Factory A/C •Console
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 08:28 PM
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Yep, and I didn't want to use the same crappy felt, so I installed some sound deadener (Butyl Ice & Water Shield from Home Depot) with some insulation over the top (Frost King reflective, also from H-D).

Bart

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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So I cant piece it in? Everything has to be removed?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:10 PM
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You can’t really piece in the original mat. The after market peal and stick sound deadener you piece in as well as the reflective heat and sound barrier stuff. The problem is on the passenger side. Without removing the heater box, you’ll never get it back up there where you need it.

If you haven’t rebuilt the heater box and replaced the heater core, take this as an opportunity to do it. Any original unit is on borrowed time.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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I am having the heater box repaired now, the service tec. wants $450. to put in the firewall insulation, says it will be 8 hours of labor + mat.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavymetal69 View Post
I am having the heater box repaired now, the service tec. wants $450. to put in the firewall insulation, says it will be 8 hours of labor + mat.
That's a job worth doing yourself and saving that money for something you will see again in the next 50 years since you likely won't need to do the mat again...
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My 1st car...
'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories

Older son's 1st car...
'66 Emberglo / Parchment deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Dealer A/C • Console
•Dual Exhaust • Power Steering

Younger son's 1st car...
'66 Nightmist / Blue & white deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Factory A/C •Console
WAITING FOR RESTORATION

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 10:21 AM
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You can definitely do it yourself.
If you have a console, remove it.
It would also be a good idea to remove at least one front seat, if not both.
You'll still have to be a contortionist, but you'll have more room to move.
And don't forget to pull the lamps out of the courtesy lights, because the doors will be open the entire time.
You don't want to have a dead battery or to replace melted lenses when you're done.
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