1966 200 I6 carb issue - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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1966 200 I6 carb issue

Hey Gang! New to the group and new to owning a vintage mustang...very exciting. 1966 Hardtop 200 CID 3 spd man that has not been started in many years. Everything is coming part nicely with one exception. The copper line that runs from the back of my carb to the exhaust manifold just kinda “fell off”. I do not want to replace the manifold until we get further down the line after we get the engine up and running. What can be done here? The remaining nub is not coming out and it appears to be open as I slid a wood dowel down the opening and it went about 2-3 inches in without hesitation. Is that hole in the manifold open on the backside? Hard to find info. Can I gently drill out the remaining tube and replace? From what I’m reading you guys are the masters...thanks already for all that I have learned and any help is appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:11 PM
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That's the choke heat riser tube. You can very carefully drill that out and replace the tube, some have plugged it and are using aftermarket carbs without the tube.
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My 1st car...
'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
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•LOTS of Rotunda accessories

Older son's 1st car...
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Younger son's 1st car...
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WAITING FOR RESTORATION

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:16 PM
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Yes, You have to drill it out. Start out with a small diameter drill bit and work your way up to the correct diameter drill bit. You will drill about an 1 1/4 inch on a downward angle. Also mark your drill bits with a piece of painter masking tape so you know how deep you are drilling. The final diameter will be whatever the diameter is of the Aluminum tubing is. If you have copper tubing, It's not the original tubing anyway, so just buy a new choke tube kit from NPD or CJ's.

I had the same exact problem on my '65 200 Exhaust manifold....so I just drilled it out just as I suggest above. It's also better to drill it out on the car rather than take off the exhaust manifold also. It's a lot easier.

PS: From the looks of your exhaust Gasket, After you drill out the hole...You'll have to take off the exhaust manifold soon anyway as your Exhaust Manifold Gasket is toast and needs a new one. Pick up a Fel-Pro Exhaust Manifold Gasket from any autoparts store. I can tell from the pic that ist severly shot. While you are picking up a new FEL-Pro exhaust gasket, Also pick up a new set of 1966 AMK "Concours" Exhaust Manifold "RAMP-LOK" bolts... You have all the wrong bolts on your Exhaust Manifold as well.

)

Tony K.
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Tony Kovar
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Last edited by NEFaurora; 08-23-2019 at 02:23 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:31 PM
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Pretty much what NEFaurrora said- but I might take manifold off and drill or work on it while off the car. But whatever you find easiest-

If it hasn't run in 30 yrs- get a carb rebuild kit too- yo will prob need that as well- but you might get lucky-
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent advice! I shall drill...one of the reasons I don’t want to mess with the exhaust manifold yet is I’m afraid those bolts are all going to snap off leaving me with a mess in my block. Besides BP Blaster and heat...highest I have is Mapp...any ideas or procedures to gently try to get them off? Also I cannot seem to find a replacement manifold that includes the hole for the riser tube. May just be missing it in the store pics...new bolts for sure when the time comes and will make sure they are the correct one. Many thanks!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 06:43 PM
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You might be able to take a small screwdriver or punch and push in that metal nib towards the center of the hole and fish it out with needle nose pliers. That’s what I did. If you don’t have an exhaust manifold leak you might leave things alone for now.

I used to develop exhaust leaks because the bolts would work loose and warp the manifold. I’d had it machined flat only to get a new leak down the road even using lock washers. Those ramp lock bolts cured the problem forever. It’s been maybe 30 years now.

Those bolts were developed after new cars were getting warranty work due to exhaust leaks.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 06:55 PM
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Yep...

Long Live the RAMP-LOK!

I put them on my '65 Vert though it was never equipped with them.... Only a real stickler would know....lol.... The Original Pre-'66 "Bend-Over" tabs hardly work anyway and just Burn thru the tabs eventually anyway... and are a pain to remove if you have to remove the Exhaust Manifold for any reason...if the tabs are all bent over onto the bolts..., With Ramp-Lok(s)......No Problem!

Definitely one of Ford's "Better" improvements....

- Another one was getting rid of the dopey Tranny Cooler Hoses at the Front of the Radiator (On C4 Auto Cars) in '66 and just going to straight hardlines to the Radiator for the Tranny Cooler. Another excellent improvement. Those dopey '65 Tranny hoses just crack and wind up leaking anyway.... That's why I went to '66 Tranny Hardlines on my '65 also... No leaks...or cracking tranny hoses.. done deal. 1966 did see some good improvements that you can really take advantage of if you have a '65.

)

Tony K.
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Tony Kovar
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:04 PM
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I've always had good luck taking a drill bit.... something in the back of my brain tells me it's 1/4 inch, but I'm not positive.... and "screwing" the drill bit in by hand and using my slide hammer to gently pull it out.

The hole doesn't actually go INTO the exhaust stream, just through the manifold to pick up heat. If your car didn't have a second "fresh air" tube the hole was packed with a coarse steel wool.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:05 PM
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"tube the hole was packed with a coarse steel wool."

I think that it looked more like pieces of a Brillo Pad jammed in there IMHO.....lol....

...if my memory serves... lol...

)

Tony K.
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Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satfor30years View Post
Excellent advice! I shall drill...one of the reasons I don’t want to mess with the exhaust manifold yet is I’m afraid those bolts are all going to snap off leaving me with a mess in my block. Besides BP Blaster and heat...highest I have is Mapp...any ideas or procedures to gently try to get them off? Also I cannot seem to find a replacement manifold that includes the hole for the riser tube. May just be missing it in the store pics...new bolts for sure when the time comes and will make sure they are the correct one. Many thanks!
The NPD manifold has the chock provision. You can see it if you look closely

https://www.npdlink.com/product/mani...1966&year=1966
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