Vacuum problems?? - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
I'm afraid of doing damage to the head if I try to weld a nut on. Especially to the ones that are flush. I don't see how to do that and I expect my weld wouldn't hold anyway. I have broken off an easy-out before and that is a pain. I'm finding the ones long enough to grab with a pipe wrench are still not coming out easily. I haven't put enough pressure on it yet to snap off the remaining bolt. I keep dowsing them in penetrating oil and maybe I'll try heat next.

Once I'm ready to reassemble, can I use grade 5 bolts from the hardware store or should I stick with a set of manifold bolts? I don't think the ones from CJ in this pic are exactly like I need. The six 1 inch ones are correct but I have five 2 1/2 but the ones in this pic look like three 1 3/4? and 2 odd longer ones. I'm sure those are for some accessory I don't have.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Exhaust Manifold Bolts.jpg (35.5 KB, 1 views)

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:55 AM
Senior Member
 
Woodchuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
Posts: 33,147
Send a message via Yahoo to Woodchuck
You weld through the center of the nut. You can also weld through the center of a large fender washer, then weld a nut to the fender washer.

I'd use the proper manifold bolts vs. trying to match up what would end up as a bolt too short or too long for the application. Make sure you chase the threads and clean out the holes of any debris before putting new bolts in.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

Woodchuck is offline  
post #33 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
I just went to the machine shop and he said my manifold is beyond repair. The end that had the leak has burned the metal away to the point he said he would not be able to machine it off enough. So I guess I'm in the market for a new one. Oh well that will give me time to play with getting the broken bolts out. Fortunately this is my wife's car and she seldom drives it.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
 
post #34 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
I'm going to try welding nuts on. At least onto the shot stubs sticking out. Do I need to do anything else like remove the carburetor or make sure there is no fuel close by?

And if I try to weld onto the flush studs, how do I hold the nut or washer on there? Magnet? I don't see any way to clamp it down.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
post #35 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
Welding nuts on was a bust. I could not get the stud to melt. I guess my little 110v Miller doesn't get hot enough. It melted the nut fine but never would fuse to the stud properly. I think it would have just twisted the stud off anyway. I think I'm going to have to drill them out and re-tap.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
post #36 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 10:52 PM
Senior Member
 
Hemikiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Killingworth, CT
Posts: 8,865
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winch View Post
Welding nuts on was a bust. I could not get the stud to melt. I guess my little 110v Miller doesn't get hot enough. It melted the nut fine but never would fuse to the stud properly. I think it would have just twisted the stud off anyway. I think I'm going to have to drill them out and re-tap.
Grind the end of the stud clean, and drop some weld onto it by itself. Take a nut that'll fit over the welded stud and weld the nut to your weld.
kenash likes this.

Nothing worthwhile is ever quick, cheap or easy, those that can't do, complain

71 Mach 1

HOLLEY TECH PAGES
FORD OE TACH HOOKUP FORD OE TACH HOOKUP w/MSD (pg 7)
Hemikiller is offline  
post #37 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:15 PM
Senior Member
 
awhtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The Hill Country of Central Texas
Posts: 9,148
Since your welder doesn't get hot enough to weld to the broken bolt a way to remove them is to heat the bolt to orange color just before it melts and let it cool. Heat again and cool. This breaks the rust bond between the head and the bolt. A propane torch won't do it- you need an acetylene torch.


I wouldn't try to drill out the broken bolts that are flush with the head on the engine. The bit will "walk" off to one side and you'll ruin the drilled and tapped hole in the head. Just remove the head and take it to the machine shop if necessary.
awhtx is offline  
post #38 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
I have been able to drill and tap 3 of the 5 so far. To get around the potential walking problem, I bolted on the manifold and in the hole I inserted steel spacers that I used as guides for the drill bit. The spacers are 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. I had to wrap a couple of winds of electrical tape to make them fit snug. Then I used a 1/4 inch pilot point drill to start a small hole in the center of the bolt. I then used a 1/8 drill bit to drill out the center then followed that with 1/4 inch. That worked well for 3 of the broken bolts. The last 2 I have the 1/8 inch drilled out but I cannot get any 1/4 inch bits to bite. I wonder if someone used grade 5 or 8 bolts in the past.

Any suggestions on what type bit to use? I've tried split point, pilot point, red helix; DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
post #39 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 09:02 AM
Senior Member
 
Woodchuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
Posts: 33,147
Send a message via Yahoo to Woodchuck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winch View Post
I have been able to drill and tap 3 of the 5 so far. To get around the potential walking problem, I bolted on the manifold and in the hole I inserted steel spacers that I used as guides for the drill bit. The spacers are 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. I had to wrap a couple of winds of electrical tape to make them fit snug. Then I used a 1/4 inch pilot point drill to start a small hole in the center of the bolt. I then used a 1/8 drill bit to drill out the center then followed that with 1/4 inch. That worked well for 3 of the broken bolts. The last 2 I have the 1/8 inch drilled out but I cannot get any 1/4 inch bits to bite. I wonder if someone used grade 5 or 8 bolts in the past.

Any suggestions on what type bit to use? I've tried split point, pilot point, red helix; DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch.
135* split-point HSS bits should work fine. Cobalt is a plus. Try a 1/8" bit to drill a pilot hole first.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

Woodchuck is offline  
post #40 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
135* split-point HSS bits should work fine. Cobalt is a plus. Try a 1/8" bit to drill a pilot hole first.
I don't know about the 135* or HSS but I seemed to have best results with 1/8 inch DeWalt split point but I can't seem to find a 1/4 split point. All the local stores have in DeWalt 1/4 are speed tip. I found a 1/4 split point on Amazon and ordered it but what I got was a speed tip. But get this, the product number - DW1316 - is the same. In the pic on Amazon it is split point but on the package they sent me it is speed tip. I emailed DeWalt but haven't heard from them yet.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
post #41 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 10:36 AM
Senior Member
 
Woodchuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
Posts: 33,147
Send a message via Yahoo to Woodchuck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winch View Post
I don't know about the 135* or HSS but I seemed to have best results with 1/8 inch DeWalt split point but I can't seem to find a 1/4 split point. All the local stores have in DeWalt 1/4 are speed tip. I found a 1/4 split point on Amazon and ordered it but what I got was a speed tip. But get this, the product number - DW1316 - is the same. In the pic on Amazon it is split point but on the package they sent me it is speed tip. I emailed DeWalt but haven't heard from them yet.
HSS = "High Speed Steel" or pretty much the standard for a basic metal-cutting bit. Do you have a Fastenal in town? You'll get a quality bit there, not some "hardware store quality" stuff.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

Woodchuck is offline  
post #42 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
HSS = "High Speed Steel" or pretty much the standard for a basic metal-cutting bit. Do you have a Fastenal in town? You'll get a quality bit there, not some "hardware store quality" stuff.
We do have a Fastenal. It's a little was away. What brand bit do they sell or do you recommend? I just looked over the packaging from various bits I've been buying and none say the degree of grind except the cheap stuff I had from Harbor Freight. Their 1/4 is 118* and their 1/8 inch is 135* It was the 135* 1/8 bit I was able to get through these last bolts so maybe the degree is the key. I'll try to find one of those today.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
post #43 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 11:00 AM
Senior Member
 
Hemikiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Killingworth, CT
Posts: 8,865
Garage
Get good bits, get good results.

https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits

Nothing worthwhile is ever quick, cheap or easy, those that can't do, complain

71 Mach 1

HOLLEY TECH PAGES
FORD OE TACH HOOKUP FORD OE TACH HOOKUP w/MSD (pg 7)
Hemikiller is offline  
post #44 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 12:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Woodchuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
Posts: 33,147
Send a message via Yahoo to Woodchuck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winch View Post
We do have a Fastenal. It's a little was away. What brand bit do they sell or do you recommend? I just looked over the packaging from various bits I've been buying and none say the degree of grind except the cheap stuff I had from Harbor Freight. Their 1/4 is 118* and their 1/8 inch is 135* It was the 135* 1/8 bit I was able to get through these last bolts so maybe the degree is the key. I'll try to find one of those today.
They sell a variety of "brands". I usually look for a US made bit.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

Woodchuck is offline  
post #45 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 397
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
They sell a variety of "brands". I usually look for a US made bit.
He suggested a Norseman brand. 135* split point. It cut in a few MM further but then stops cutting.

I am neither a fast mechanic nor a slow mechanic. I am a half-fast mechanic.
Winch is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome