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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Synthetic Oil

I was sure this was discussed but tried a search but only found for newer mustangs.
With the way current oil is without ZDDP,, should or shouldn't a person use synthetic oil?
I have 71 Mach 1 with a 351 W 4V . Don't know anything about the engine. Purchased it with the 351 W. It came from the factory with a 302 2V.
I have heard it can lubricate better including seals but may get leaks.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:45 AM
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Mobil 1 15w-50

1970 Mustang coupe
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Is your engine older or rebuilt? No problems with new leaks?
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 09:56 AM
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Valvoline makes an specific oil with high ZDDP. VR1. They have a street legal version and non street legal.

Also, 15W40 diesel oils have higher levels of zddp. Shell Rotella T4 is easy to find.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 10:20 AM
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Do a search here on the forum, there are LOTS of current threads on this.

The short answer is that synthetic is just fine, just make sure you have higher levels of ZDDP for a flat tappet cam - if you have one.

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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 11:39 AM
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I don't think there are any valid reasons for avoiding synthetic oils. Almost every refiner makes a high quality synthetic oil, so there are many fine choices.

The Mobil 1 15w-50 and 0w-40 are the two products I've been using since around 1999 and many tens of thousands of miles. No oiling issues, ever. Pick an oil with over 1000 ppm of zinc / phosphorus and you won't have any problems regardless of brand.

Z

PS. In the rare event you do get a oil leak after changing to a synthetic oil, just fix the leak, don't go back to conventional oils.

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 02:43 PM
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Been using synthetics in all my cars since 1977.



Driving a stock Mustang is like driving a sofa. I'm Real Good at driving sofas!
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 06:50 PM
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WalMart carries a 5 gallon jug of Mobile 1 15/50 for around $23. It has the ZDDP you need for flat tappet cams. But it has to be the 15/50.

'67 coupe, 390, 4spd.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 07:22 PM
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After I did my research I also ended up with Mobile 1 15W-50. It has the same zinc and phosphorus level as the Valvoline VR1 oil.



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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zray View Post
I don't think there are any valid reasons for avoiding synthetic oils. .
Cost is always valid when it conflicts ego with actual needs. $4 on 5qts might be 20-25%

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Originally Posted by Mustang4SF View Post
After I did my research I also ended up with Mobile 1 15W-50. It has the same zinc and phosphorus level as the Valvoline VR1 oil.
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I hope you used valid info in your research, as in most current. The 15W-50 has gone down in ZDDP over the years from red cap to black cap now silver cap. Its still fine though.
VR1 is listed for racing/off-road for a reason. The consequence is it should be changed more frequently.

ZDDP doesn't need to be the definitive factors anymore. Molybendum and Boron serve the same purposes.

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ofAMillion+ View Post
I hope you used valid info in your research, as in most current. The 15W-50 has gone down in ZDDP over the years from red cap to black cap now silver cap. Its still fine though.
VR1 is listed for racing/off-road for a reason. The consequence is it should be changed more frequently.

ZDDP doesn't need to be the definitive factors anymore. Molybendum and Boron serve the same purposes.

Good question, the information is from the Mobil 1 page:
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf


Page 3: Zinc 1300ppm and Phosphorus 1200ppm. According to the pdf the information is from June 2019. @1ofAMillion+ : Do you have other values you can share?



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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:55 PM
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This comes up a lot and if you can find them, there are threads with way more info than you want. Zray summed it up nicely. Mobil has taken the trouble to meet specifications with a couple of oils that many vintage Mercedes cars and Porsches require. And put it in writing. Unlike most other brands that hem and haw and rather vaguely "claim" to be good for various older cars. It so happens what is good for those older European cars is perfect for our old Ford engines. The specs are out there and previous discussions of this included a chart. Basically all you need to know is that some of the best synthetic motor oil ever for our cars is the 15W-50 and I just picked some up on sale at Wal Mart for $22 for 5 quarts. What may be the "best" is the Porsche spec 0-40 Zray also mentioned. It meets a higher standard, is not on sale like ever, and is really overkill for my 351W's if you ask me. Good stuff though. The weights are key. They don't sell a different version of 15W-50 that I've seen, if you see those numbers on the full synthetic bottle that's it. 10W-30 and 5W-20 are very different blends intended for different engines.

I have a Japanese engined vehicle that I decided to treat to Mobil 1 10W-30 (correct for 1990's Asian stuff) after a long life of (I imagine) the cheapest oil available. It was unhappy and immediately started leaking small rivers of oil. Mostly from the cam plugs, valve covers, and distributor seal. Never leaked a drop before. That one didn't go too well but new gaskets and seals I've bothered to put on seem to have corked it up. (I still haven't finished changing ALL the gaskets. I don't value the vehicle highly enough.) I've yet to see such issues swapping Fords (new and old) over to synthetic but I keep a sharp eye.

Dirty little secret. If a car smokes blue smoke visibly out of the tail pipe, you can change it over to full synthetic Mobil 1 and the blue smoke will almost disappear about the second oil change. It's still burning oil just as bad, but you and everyone can no longer really see it.
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 09:46 PM
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 10:59 PM
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A coworker and I were just recently discussing this subject and doing a bit of google research on the matter. Like others have stated, besides cost differential (which is shrinking quite a bit these days) there is nothing but positives switching to a full synthetic. I just switched my Mustang over from the Delo 15w-40 diesel oil to the Mobil 15w-50 synthetic. I am approaching 80k miles on my 351w, and it’s still going strong.

Regarding the leaks after switching over... synthetic oils tend to clean the motor better than conventional oils. So all those years of running oil that deposits goo on everything, including your seals, the synthetic flushes the goo out which can then cause a leak if the goo was acting like a seal on an already compromised seal. I’m crossing my fingers mine doesn’t develop any leaks after the switch 😬
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 12:10 PM
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For some reason a few people still insist on running diesel oil in gasoline engines. There was discussion at another board some time back where an actually qualified petroleum engineer chimed in wondering why in the world would people do such a thing. It implied to him that his entire career spent carefully designing additive packages to best suit the needs of particular engines was a complete waste of time. "Completely ignore what it says on the label and do the opposite. Just pour in any old crap some random guys on the internet say is better with absolutely no scientific evidence to support doing so." He was fairly annoyed about it. I found it very amusing.

It's been pointed out before here that diesel engine oil happens to have an additive in it which makes it suitable for use in many motorcycles that use motor oil in their transmissions and have a "wet clutch". This is a valid practice. The reason to do so is that motorcycle specific oil costs more and is less widely available. None of which is relevant at all to old Mustangs.
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