Rocker rail to engine bay path. - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Rocker rail to engine bay path.

Im relocating the battery to trunk.
I see people talking about running the battery cable down inner rocker under the cover into wheel well and into engine bay.

Im assuming you have to cut a hole into where my finger is



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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Nobody has the answer to this?
How do you run a battery cable through the rocker rail to the engine compartment on a 68.

Seems like you have to drill this hole....



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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 11:58 PM
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I ran mine on top of the sill, behind the kick panel, then out.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 01:28 AM
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On our 65 f 66 I ran 10 gauge wire from solenoid in trunk under door sill under heater box out fire wall at floor to solenoid block at original solenoid position on firewall.
Run 1 gauge cable from solenoid in trunk through trunk floor along frame rail to starter.
Have global west subframe connectors, so strapped cable to sub frame connector. This cable is only engerized when cranking engine over. Run a thermo sock over last two feet of cable over header pipe.
Also ran 1 gauge cable through trunk to stud welded to frame rail for additional ground.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 01:22 PM
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I got my kit from MAD Electrical. Their website MadElectrial.com Online Catalog has some very good diagrams and instructions.

I am trying to attach pics of my cable routing but no joy.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 03:58 PM
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I don't think I would try and run that cable inside the rocker panel.



The path Shelby used is probably still the best/easiest one to use to do this and it is authentic. You can find most all of the images you need to see how it was done here;


Virginia Classic Mustang Blog: Just the Details...1965 GT350 Mustang Shelby with Trunk Mounted Battery


The plastic dipped clamps are still available but I used stainless screws to attach them instead of rivets.



They didn't shoot a photo of the battery ground. I just step drilled a grommet hole behind the battery where the negative terminal is and routed it to an available threaded hole in the rear frame rail near where the battery is.


This isn't my battery but I used these terminals. They are military spec dual connection covered battery terminals.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 05:43 PM
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In my old 67 coupe I relocated the battery to the trunk...but I just ran the cable under the sill plate through the interior. That being said...these days I think a better option is to use a Dynabatt( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...SABEgIOQfD_BwE ) and leave it up front. The reason I say that is because by the time you get done running the cable to the trunk...you have actually added weight to the car, maybe only 7lbs...but still, you come out with slightly better weight distribution at the cost of overall weight...which is where the Dynabatt shines...I have used them in several cars...they weigh very little and can be mounted in any position while taking up little space...and you don't get the voltage/amperage drop from remote mounting a battery...they are somewhat more expensive than a conventional battery though.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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What size wire did yall run from the battery in trunk to your junction box back up front for constant on house power?



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