Car hasn't ran for 20ish years...Drum Brakes? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Car hasn't ran for 20ish years...Drum Brakes?

Good afternoon all.

A bit slow day at work, so just wanted to look into the next step.

This weekend, if all goes according to plan...I plan to fire up my mustang that has been sitting for nearly 20 years.

Next step? Should I work on the drum brakes? Should I invest in a drum rebuild kit, I see those going on cjponyparts for almost $300? Though thats almost half of a front disc brake conversion from Chocko.

Per my previous post, this car was pretty much a daily before being trapped in my moms garage for 20 years. The only reason it was stopped being used, is because my father passed away unexpectedly...so no one was able to care/maintain it. The odometer has 493,XXX on it...so it kinda shows that my dad did truly care for it.

Are there any youtube videos or guide that will help me just kinda make sure the drum brakes are in ok and working condition?

All is appreciated! thanks,
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by apalacpac View Post
This weekend, if all goes according to plan...I plan to fire up my mustang that has been sitting for nearly 20 years.

All is appreciated! thanks,
That may be a tougher task than expected if it's been sitting that long. I would try to get over that hurdle before worrying about what to do next, especially this weekend. It took me about 3 weeks to get one started that had been sitting 15 years...

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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That may be a tougher task than expected if it's been sitting that long. I would try to get over that hurdle before worrying about what to do next, especially this weekend. It took me about 3 weeks to get one started that had been sitting 15 years...

Allen
Word.

I've been working on that for the past 2- weeks.

I've squirted MMO into the spark plug holes, and eventually got the engine turning by the crankshaft...after about a week.
Changed Coolant and radiator hoses
Changed Oil and filter
Changed Fuel Filter
Bought new spark plugs
Dropped the oil pan and cleaned that out
Bought a new battery

All thats left is to pour in the new oil, prime the oil pump and hook up the battery. But yea...I'm hoping that should be enough. Just kinda wanted to get a overview of what to do with the brakes for this post?
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Last edited by apalacpac; 09-06-2019 at 06:51 PM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 07:03 PM
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If you're looking to upgrade to disc anyway, then Chock, Dan, is the man. My 66 GT had front disc brakes and I bought Chock's instead of trying to rebuild what I had...

Of course, it's more money, but to spend half of the cost to rebuild the drum brakes only to want disc later? I would splurge. After all, it's the most important part of the car, my opinion...

Allen
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 08:32 PM
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If it was stored in a dry space where rust did not form all over everything, you could pull each drum, make sure the contact points on the plate are greased, as well as certain pivot points. Examine all the hoses for checking, and the lines for rust. Then install the drums, adjust the front bearings, and thoroughly bleed the brakes.

If there is any doubt about any line, hose, or cylinder, replace it.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:14 PM
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You can buy all the parts on Rockauto.com and and a lot cheaper probably than $300... and you can even pick what brands you want...

I get all of my Brake parts from Rockauto.com for the last 25 years...

)

Tony K.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:26 PM
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I saw this today and it made me laugh...
Maybe it helps in your decision!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
You can buy all the parts on Rockauto.com and and a lot cheaper probably than $300... and you can even pick what brands you want...

I get all of my Brake parts from Rockauto.com for the last 25 years...

)

Tony K.
This was kind of the answer I was looking for...Something to get my drum breaks up to par but not to cost heavy. Thanks I'll look into it!
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by apalacpac View Post
This was kind of the answer I was looking for...Something to get my drum breaks up to par but not to cost heavy. Thanks I'll look into it!

Don't "buy, before you try". As 22GT stated, unless they were submerged, a thorough cleaning would be my first choice. Obviously, if the shoes are worn, they are cheap and easy to replace.
I'd focus on getting the engine starting and running smoothly.
It depends on your budget?

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Don't "buy, before you try". As 22GT stated, unless they were submerged, a thorough cleaning would be my first choice. Obviously, if the shoes are worn, they are cheap and easy to replace.
I'd focus on getting the engine starting and running smoothly.
It depends on your budget?
Roger that. I'll do that, thank you!

Engine...Ugh I ordered the wrong oil pump prime tool. Correct one should be coming in today! So if all goes well...we will see.

Budget wise. Just trying to get it started and then moving/braking on a budget. Then from there assess what needs to be worked on.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:14 PM
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If the wheel cylinders aren't visibly leaking; and the MC is functional and the lines aren't leaking it either (bleeding will show this), just drive it.

1965 Mustang
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:18 PM
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I'm thinking after 20 years of sitting, it's pretty much a given every wheel cylinder will leak. Guess it can't hurt to bleed the brake system and find out. It will cost only some time and brake fluid.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:48 PM
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When I rebuilt the front drums on my 66 years ago I noticed small and big block cars used the same finned drum. Small blocks used a 2.25" wide shoe while big blocks used a 2.50" wide shoes from 67 & up. So I put the big block shoes on. They worked very well! I never had any brake fade that I noticed. When I switched to discs, I really didn't notice much if any improvement. A cheap drum upgrade that is effective.

Tom

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
When I rebuilt the front drums on my 66 years ago I noticed small and big block cars used the same finned drum. Small blocks used a 2.25" wide shoe while big blocks used a 2.50" wide shoes from 67 & up. So I put the big block shoes on. They worked very well! I never had any brake fade that I noticed. When I switched to discs, I really didn't notice much if any improvement. A cheap drum upgrade that is effective.
I've talked to some people and heard the same as well. They did mention that power brakes were worth it though. Maybe I'll stay with drums all around and go with a power brake conversion instead.

Last edited by apalacpac; Yesterday at 02:58 PM.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:44 PM
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In 36 years I have maintained my rear drums but never found a need to "re-build" them. Other than shoes wearing, cylinders leaking and the adjuster rusting there is not much else to go bad. Granted, my car was from California, so not much rust. New shoes are about $30, new wheel cylinders are about $10/ea and adjusting screws are $5/ea at Rock Auto. Add in $5 for some brake fluid and you should be good to go for well under $100 for the rear brakes. That assumes drums are okay. Remember, use a flare wrench on the lines (well worth the money). A little MightyVac helps with the bleeding.

In order of priority I would go with a dual reservoir master cylinder before power brake booster.

Chris (Sussex, WI)

289 w/AFR 165, T-5z, 3.55T-loc, Granada Discs and 6 bolt Moto-Lita Steering Wheel

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