How long should priming an oil pump tank? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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How long should priming an oil pump tank?

I’ve been sitting here off and on, spinning it counter clockwise...with the valve covers off...and nothing is coming out.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:18 PM
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Did you pack the oil pump with Vaseline? If not, it can take a long, long, long time to finally get enough liquid to displace all the air.

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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:23 PM
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Are you spinning it by hand or with an electric drill?


I've never packed one with Vaseline and I don't remember it ever taking more than about 30 seconds with an electric drill. You will know when it's pumping as it will drag the drill down noticeably.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:41 PM
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^^^ Yes, be ready when it starts pumping, the drill will want to twist your wrists.

Do you have a good seal between the pickup tube and the pump?

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve been spinning it with an electric drill for awhile, little over an hour.

I don’t know if it makes a difference or not, but i tried spark plugs in and out.

I don’t know about the pump seal. It’s been sitting for about 20 years, and was running when it stopped. I guess I’ll have to drop the oil pan? Check the pump seal? Pack it with Vaseline?
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:04 PM
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There IS oil in the crankcase, right?
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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There IS oil in the crankcase, right?
Well **** me.

Sorry. I’m no mechanic lol.

I poured the oil through the valve cover. I saw one video of someone pouring it though the distributor hole...I’m guessing i should’ve done that.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:23 PM
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Cool

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:36 PM
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Well **** me.

Sorry. I’m no mechanic lol.

I poured the oil through the valve cover. I saw one video of someone pouring it though the distributor hole...I’m guessing i should’ve done that.
Pouring it through the valve cover should not be an issue. The oil drains right down to the crankcase from there. That's where 99.99% of folks will put new oil in after an oil change. You either have a bad oil pump, the pickup isn't doing its job either because of a crack or it's clogged, or it's the wrong one, or the shaft from the distributor to the oil pump isn't engaged or broken. I've primed my oil pump by hand for years, and it never took longer than a minute or so to start getting oil up through the pushrods.



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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Pouring it through the valve cover should not be an issue. The oil drains right down to the crankcase from there. That's where 99.99% of folks will put new oil in after an oil change. You either have a bad oil pump, the pickup isn't doing its job either because of a crack or it's clogged, or it's the wrong one, or the shaft from the distributor to the oil pump isn't engaged or broken. I've primed my oil pump by hand for years, and it never took longer than a minute or so to start getting oil up through the pushrods.
With the help of this video:

I think I have found my issue. I think as I pulled my distributor and the shaft pulled up/disengaged as I removed it...as described in the video. This car was running before it sat for 20 years, so I don't think its the wrong one but won't rule out that the pickup is cracked/clogged.

Looks like I got a long day ahead of me. I'll have to drop the oil pan and go from there.

May also explain why I can't full drop my distributor all the way down.

Last edited by apalacpac; 09-09-2019 at 11:56 PM.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 12:24 AM
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May also explain why I can't full drop my distributor all the way down.

If the shaft dropped into the oil pan then it should be easier to seat your distributor. The shaft also should have a retainer that prevents it from pulling out. Whether your retainer is there or not is of course not known. You should be able to see the shaft in there if it is there.

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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May also explain why I can't full drop my distributor all the way down.

If the shaft dropped into the oil pan then it should be easier to seat your distributor. The shaft also should have a retainer that prevents it from pulling out. Whether your retainer is there or not is of course not known. You should be able to see the shaft in there if it is there.
I don’t think it dropped in the oil pan. I think it just unseated from the pump, but still propped up. I can see it from the top of the distributor hole
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 06:12 AM
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Just an idea if the pump won't suck from the pan, remove the filter and dump some oil backwards into the pump. I don't know if it will make any difference, but it should be pretty eazy to try.
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 06:43 AM
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With a battery powered drill it took about 10-15s to start showing pressure on my mechanical gauge. (no Vaseline used). When it starts to build pressure you'll notice the drill getting loaded down a bit. I had 52psi and oil was pumping up through all the push rods shortly after that.

It just needs some TLC.....Tremendous Loads of Cash
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 07:24 AM
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At this point I would just drop the pan and install a new oil pump and pickup. If you have been spinning that shaft for an hour and its unseated from the pump, maybe sitting on the edge of it, who knows what the end of it looks like by now. Unless you can get the shaft out and inspect it....

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