Twisted Wedge 11R 170 heads - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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As some here know I have posted a lot in the past few months about my 65 coupe with 289 over heating. I have narrowed the problem down to either a cracked or warped head. I have done everything under the sun to fix the overheating issue to include most recently installing a 24 inch aluminum radiator with dual 1 1/8 inch cores. Still overheating and getting worse to include that it slowly gets hot even as I drive. Finally noticed that the top hose is getting rock solid, I am losing coolant, and I can see and hear bubbles in my system and overflow tank. Apparently hot gases are infiltrating as I drive and over powering the cooling power of my system. I recently replaced the head gaskets. So I am sure it's not the gaskets.

So instead of getting the the heads rebuilt which btw, I was quoted like $750, or more depending on damage to the head. I decided to buy some twisted wedge 11R 170 heads. These are the 53cc version. I will not lose any compression and the engine will be able to breath a whole lot better. This process requires me to go to a roller cam. So I paired up a twisted wedge stage 1 cam and some retrofit roller lifters. I also went to full roller rockers as well. I am super excited to get all the stuff installed. I will probably replace the timing chain while I am at it. Will also probably just pull the engine as it seems easier to do that instead of trying to do it all while it's in the car. So will probably pop the oil pan and main caps to check the bearings as well.

Are any of you running these heads on a 289? If so what cam are you using? I am curious as to what kind of power I can expect. My desktop Dyno says 300 rwhp. Does that sound right? Only thing I have to do during the install is figure out pushrod length. Most others online say they use a 7.2in pushrod on a 302. I would think that wouldn't differ from a 289. Anyone have thoughts or experience?

Last edited by PA_cob; 09-10-2019 at 08:47 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:04 PM
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All I can tell you is to check piston to valve clearance when using TW heads and pistons without the Twisted Wedge valve relief. Call Trickflow for advice.

And be sure to follow the directions and drill the "steam holes" in the block!

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:34 PM
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For what its worth, the valve angle on the 11R head offers quite a bit more piston clearance than the previous twisted wedge heads. But you still need to get some clay and check it out. I run 11R 190's on a stock 302 short block, have quite a bit more cam than stock and I have tons of room.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:34 PM
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I haven't run those heads but wanted to so researched them. The TFS cam is fine but probably would not take full advantage of those heads but should get you to the 300RWHP. You might need a different distributor gear as well if you still have the stock cast one. I think that TFS cam requires a steel distributor gear but I would verify with TFS. What intake and headers are you running? Most folks run a 1 3/4 header with those heads since they flow so well. When you get some awesome heads like that you have to upgrade all the rest of the stuff since you have to think of it as a whole package.

1967 Mustang Convertible, 289-4v, C4, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Mild Cam.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the 11Rs because they offer enough valve relief with and flatop piston. I am going to have 1 5/8 headers on it. @Lightning did you keep the heavy springs and go with a roller cam or did you switch out the springs and go with a flat tappet cam? If going roller how long are your pushrods?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:02 PM
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Good to hear the piston to valve issue with my TW 170 heads has been apparently solved with the 11R heads! I'd invest in a little plumbers putty just to be sure.

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:08 PM
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@PA_cob You'll want to get a pushrod length check tool to verify that you get the correct length pushrods for your engine. Don't rely on internet banter to get the right pushrods. You'll want to check them yourself to make sure the rocker arms are centered on the valves.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:10 PM
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Get out your drill bit to make steam holes in the heads to match your block....

Also, here's a "funny" video...
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:15 PM
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Another one..
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:19 PM
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Hi I run a 331 stroker with 170cc TW heads, setup with a 10.6 CR. I run Probe pistons with dual valve reliefs. If you plan to run over .550 gross lift (I run .570/.562), you may need the dual relief pistons. I you plan to run billet cam, then, plan on a steel gear or one of the newer melonized (?) gears.
By all means, check the PR geometry for the proper PR length.
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File Type: jpg thumb_CC'g Pistons_1024.jpg (41.9 KB, 74 views)
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
Get out your drill bit to make steam holes in the heads to match your block....

Also, here's a "funny" video... https://youtu.be/LmVVoUT7Di0
Damn'd China valves! I did have my TW 170 heads checked out when new and they were and have been fine dadgumit!

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA_cob View Post
I bought the 11Rs because they offer enough valve relief with and flatop piston. I am going to have 1 5/8 headers on it. @Lightning did you keep the heavy springs and go with a roller cam or did you switch out the springs and go with a flat tappet cam? If going roller how long are your pushrods?
My engine is a roller cam block, so yes I have the heavy springs. I'm using 7.2" pushrods, but a retrofit roller cam in a non roller block may have a different base circle diameter requiring a different length pushrod.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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@Lightning this is not a retrofit cam. Its an actual grind for a 5.0 and the base circle should be normal. 7.2 seems to be the magic number.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:52 PM
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Watching that Vid Woodchuck offered, makes you want to tear the heads off this winter and find a competent shop. The key.....finding that competent chop!

KenA..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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@kenash the cam has .499 intake and .510 exhaust. Nothing too extreme.
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