Valve Stem Keepers Stuck - Vintage Mustang Forums
 6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western CT
Posts: 102
Valve Stem Keepers Stuck

Just started project to replace the valve stem seals on my inline 200 six. Finally located a good tool from Lisle to compress springs. However although I have gotten to the point where the tension is removed from the keepers, they are frozen and will not release. Could the problem be that they have probably been sitting in same spot for 50 plus years? I'm open to ideas/suggestions.

*65 Coupe with Inline 200. CA black plate.
*67 3.03 Toploader tranny upgrade from block to rear end.
*Front suspension rebuild. Upper ball joints, LCA's with ball joints, Opentracker roller bearing spring perches, 1 inch sway bar, tie rods and center link.
*GT Leaf Springs
New Mustanger is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 03:45 PM
Senior Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 6,275
Garage
I've used a dead blow hammer and hit the top of the valve stem "sharply" it will loosen them and it they pop loose/off.
c6fastback, gt350sr and Fitch like this.

KenA..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
Severna Park, Maryland
kenash is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 03:56 PM
Senior Member
 
Magnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Brandon, Florida
Posts: 1,371
Garage
Block off any holes they might fall into and then smack the top of the spring with a hammer. They tend to need some kind of impact to jostle them loose.

Just thinking though, you did put something in the cylinder to keep the valve from just falling in right? Like some rope or something? Because when you take those keepers off there's nothing holding the valve up and it can just fall right in. If that happens and it falls out of the head you're gonna have to take the head off to put it back into place.

Last edited by Magnus; 09-14-2019 at 03:58 PM.
Magnus is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western CT
Posts: 102
I'm using the rope method. Raised the piston to tdc then backed it off a tad. Stuffed rope in through the spark to fill the remaining cylinder cavity. Then inched piston back up closer to tdc.
So whacking the top of the spring won't hurt the valve stem or anything else I should be concerned about? As always thanks for the input.

*65 Coupe with Inline 200. CA black plate.
*67 3.03 Toploader tranny upgrade from block to rear end.
*Front suspension rebuild. Upper ball joints, LCA's with ball joints, Opentracker roller bearing spring perches, 1 inch sway bar, tie rods and center link.
*GT Leaf Springs
New Mustanger is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 04:26 PM
Senior Member
 
my289's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Tx
Posts: 681
Used a rubber mallet last time. Just make sure you put like a magnet or cup your hand over them since they like to pop off sometimes. I had a heck of a time looking for one last time and its hard to find it on the garage floor.

1967 Mustang Convertible, 289-4v, C4, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Mild Cam.
my289 is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 04:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Fitch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 270
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Mustanger View Post
I'm using the rope method. Raised the piston to tdc then backed it off a tad. Stuffed rope in through the spark to fill the remaining cylinder cavity. Then inched piston back up closer to tdc.
So whacking the top of the spring won't hurt the valve stem or anything else I should be concerned about? As always thanks for the input.

Gentle whacking is OK. To be safe, bring the piston to the bottom of its stroke so that you dont smack the top of the piston with a valve. Spray the keepers with a solvent such as WD-40 too.
Let us know how the rope trick works out. I have always used the adapter from my compression gauge with the Schrader valve removed and my air compressor.
Dave R. likes this.

Cliff
1966 Blue Hardtop. 200 CID with 3 Speed Trans
Fitch is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 01:01 AM
Just some guy
Supporting Member
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SC foothills, USA
Posts: 19,156
Garage
I never smack them. Just don't need to. Keepers never quite meet all the way round so there is always a small gap on one side or the other. Those tiny flat blade screwdrivers Snap On gives away for free are the business for this. Insert the blade into the gap and twist, they come right off slowly and gently as you like. This works on a lot more engines than just old Fords and keeps sometimes difficult to replace things from flying half way across the shop.

The rope deal works fine for when you don't have air available. Actually a more reliable method, just takes a bit more time to do.
GypsyR is online now  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 03:31 AM
Senior Member
 
LeeFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,493
For years I have put a deep well socket over the top of the valve retainer along with a short extension. I then smack the extension with a dead blow hammer and it drives the socket against the retainer and causes the keepers to pop off. If they want to fly away, they don't get much further than the inside wall of the socket. Sometimes it takes a couple of smacks to get them to come loose.
66coupe289 likes this.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
LeeFred is online now  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 08:40 AM
Senior Member
 
Hemikiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Killingworth, CT
Posts: 8,933
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeFred View Post
For years I have put a deep well socket over the top of the valve retainer along with a short extension. I then smack the extension with a dead blow hammer and it drives the socket against the retainer and causes the keepers to pop off. If they want to fly away, they don't get much further than the inside wall of the socket. Sometimes it takes a couple of smacks to get them to come loose.
Used this method plenty. Generally I'll smear some grease on the inside to give them something to stick to, rather than falling to the floor if I don't tilt it just right. I'll use the socket and a mallet to hit the spring retainers on all the valves on one side before using the compressor. Run right down the head from one valve to the next. When you put the compressor on, they'll generally release as they should.

"We've always done it that way" - the most dangerous words ever spoken

71 Mach 1
Hemikiller is online now  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 09:09 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 488
I worked in a machine shop as a teenager. My main job was engine disassembly to include the heads. Just like everyone else is saying we used a deep socket with a extension welded to it. However you don't need to weld anything. Just the socket or socket and extension work. Set that on the spring, give it a whack with a hammer and the spring will compress and keepers will come off, and now the spring is disassembled. That way you aren't hitting the valve directly.

Last edited by PA_cob; 09-15-2019 at 09:11 AM.
PA_cob is offline  
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 09:52 AM
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,034
Yeah...like everyone else....I have lost track of how many times I have used a hammer and a socket to remove valvespings(keepers and retainers and springs) with a single blow....this applies to OHC engines as well....but as they have all said, be careful because those retainers will fly everywhere if you arent...and even if you are.
wicked93gs is offline  
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:02 AM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 84
Like everyone else I have done the socket trick for more years than I can remember. That being said I also have a small spring compressor probably like yours and after the spring is compressed just a light tap on the twist handle of the compressor pops the keepers and they lay nicely where they belong. Grab with a magnet and your done. Better that way as you have the compressor on the spring anyway. Just did some that way last night changing valve stem seals on a 67 Corvette.
Matter is offline  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western CT
Posts: 102
To all thanks for all the good advice. Will get back to it and let everyone know I it goes.

*65 Coupe with Inline 200. CA black plate.
*67 3.03 Toploader tranny upgrade from block to rear end.
*Front suspension rebuild. Upper ball joints, LCA's with ball joints, Opentracker roller bearing spring perches, 1 inch sway bar, tie rods and center link.
*GT Leaf Springs
New Mustanger is offline  
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western CT
Posts: 102
Back Again on Unco-operative Valve Stem Springs and Keepers

Well have continued to fight with compressing valve springs and slippery keepers. Have 4 cylinders done. Skipped 5 for now, because will need to unbolt the carb to get to those springs. Focused on cylinder 6. Now have less leverage, and need to reach farther, plus have the impediments of the shock tower original brace, and the hood above. Don't have enough leverage to impact the keepers by just hitting them with the hammer and socket set up as previously suggested, although that did work in more open work area. BTW think I have the smoking issue diagnosed, because seals I am removing are all cracked. Just stuck, and once again open to suggestions.

*65 Coupe with Inline 200. CA black plate.
*67 3.03 Toploader tranny upgrade from block to rear end.
*Front suspension rebuild. Upper ball joints, LCA's with ball joints, Opentracker roller bearing spring perches, 1 inch sway bar, tie rods and center link.
*GT Leaf Springs
New Mustanger is offline  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 12:01 PM
Senior Member
 
66coupe289's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Milwaukee (Sussex), WI
Posts: 2,359
Garage
Get a bigger hammer and use a shallow well socket. Generally the sharp impact will loosen them. If they don't pop out you may need to use one of these:

kenash likes this.

Chris (Sussex, WI)

289 w/AFR 165, T-5z, 3.55T-loc, Granada Discs and 6 bolt Moto-Lita Steering Wheel

66coupe289 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome