1966 Mustang Vinyl Top to Hard Top? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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1966 Mustang Vinyl Top to Hard Top?

Hey so I'm 15 and own a 1966 Mustang. I have been working on it and already have gotten a lot of help on VMF. It is springtime yellow with a white non-cloth vinyl top. Looking into the future, I would like to paint it red but I really want to remove the vinyl top completely. I know there is a possibility the metal is deformed under it but if it is I will replace the vinyl top. What is the best way to remove it if possible? I would remove the vinyl top before I painted that way the whole car would be painted and no time wasted. If you recommend professional work I live in Oklahoma and anywhere in state is fine. Thanks in advance

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 03:03 PM
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It's not too hard to remove a vinyl top, and it's something you can do yourself. Many will removed easily with a scraper. You'll obviously need to sand to metal, and hopefully that won't reveal too many rust pits.
I've done this before, and the biggest issue is the indentation where the vinyl top met the body. This you'd need to fill. I used Metal2Metal.
Other than that, It's fairly simple work...Good luck.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 03:41 PM
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the worst part of removing my NON factory vinyl top was removing all the old contact cement buy hand (hand rubbing turns to calluses)

My current version is about 5 cans of spray on bed liner and 5 cans of plasti dip over that
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 04:14 PM
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@agungoll - I haven't removed a top before (but I did add one to a springtime yellow '66, black top, looked good.) When I do remove mine for repairs, I plan to remove with a heat gun/plastic scraper like a door trim tool, then use Goo Gone first on the residue, with progressively stronger solvent as needed. Just remember to keep asking yourself "and then what?" You try taking it off and it rips...and then what? You get it off but have residue...and then what. Eventually you'll have it off and ready for the next roof treatment.

Good luck, I'll be watching this post to learn along with you.

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Color: Y
Trim: 22
Axle: 6
Trans: 6
Build Date: July 18, 1966


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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dickson746% View Post
It's not too hard to remove a vinyl top, and it's something you can do yourself. Many will removed easily with a scraper. You'll obviously need to sand to metal, and hopefully that won't reveal too many rust pits.
I've done this before, and the biggest issue is the indentation where the vinyl top met the body. This you'd need to fill. I used Metal2Metal.
Other than that, It's fairly simple work...Good luck.
By the indentation do you mean by the door tops and windshield top etc where it kind of curves in? I will look into Metal2Metal so thank you

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
the worst part of removing my NON factory vinyl top was removing all the old contact cement buy hand (hand rubbing turns to calluses)

My current version is about 5 cans of spray on bed liner and 5 cans of plasti dip over that
I'm used to calluses because of weightlifting so that shouldn't be a problem haha. By bed liner do you mean like truck bed liner? And what does plasti dip do specifically? Are they both against rust/corrosion? If I was going to get it repainted in a shop should I put that on first? Thank you

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 66#3 View Post
@agungoll - I haven't removed a top before (but I did add one to a springtime yellow '66, black top, looked good.) When I do remove mine for repairs, I plan to remove with a heat gun/plastic scraper like a door trim tool, then use Goo Gone first on the residue, with progressively stronger solvent as needed. Just remember to keep asking yourself "and then what?" You try taking it off and it rips...and then what? You get it off but have residue...and then what. Eventually you'll have it off and ready for the next roof treatment.

Good luck, I'll be watching this post to learn along with you.
I do like the black vinyl on the yellow. My dad has a handyman that helps us around the house with renovations and stuff but a while back he won the lottery and had a ton of classic car so he knows a lot about them. I talked to him about it today and he said its just spray-on adhesive and I could get it off with a heat gun and something else I forget what but it was another type of gun. I will keep in mind the "And then what?" factor and make sure to get everything off spick and span. I do not plan to do this for a couple months or more but I get everything tip-top shape then my dad might let me repaint it for my birthday. Hope you learn as well

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:34 PM
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I'm used to calluses because of weightlifting so that shouldn't be a problem haha. What does the bed liner and plasti dip do specifically? Thank you
It looks vinyl topish from a few feet away, won't absorb water or tear,was less costly and easier to do
the bedliner gives a grainy texture and the plasti dip gives a nicer feel


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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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It looks vinyl topish from a few feet away, won't absorb water or tear,was less costly and easier to do
the bedliner gives a grainy texture and the plasti dip gives a nicer feel
Ok so how should I go about the process of painting if I do remove the vinyl top? I am thinking of having it done in shop just in case but not sure yet. May take off vinyl top off by myself and just get it painted in a shop. Also another question.... I have this pulley that I know is for the water pump but not sure where it goes... should it be connected (inverted over to where the actual pulley part is closest to water pump) to water pump and fan clutch etc.?
https://www.cjponyparts.com/water-pu...-1969/p/WPP24/

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:14 AM
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I haven't removed a top before (but I did add one to a springtime yellow '66, black top, looked good.)
I'm sure it did. This is all purely personal taste, but springtime yellow with a white vinyl top would would lose me, sort of "chicky". And a plain Jane hardtop all yellow kind of bland. But put a black vinyl top on one of those and suddenly it looks snazzy and more dramatic, richer looking. I'm no fan of vinyl tops in general, mind you, but some cars like the early mustangs make them look really nice.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:47 AM
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By the indentation do you mean by the door tops and windshield top etc where it kind of curves in? I will look into Metal2Metal so thank you

Where the trim is at where the roof meets the quarter panels is a seam. On regular painted cars that seam was filled with lead, but on vinyl top cars they didn't fill it all in so there's room for the vinyl and that trim piece. I found this picture in this old thread.


There are also some metal pieces riveted into your drip rails that you'll have to do something about and fill in the holes later.

As for that water pump pulley it bolts on just like that. With the flat face towards the radiator and the grooves toward the engine. Generally there will be a spacer between it and the water pump flange. You just need to make sure the grooves are in line with the grooves on the crankshaft pulley and your accessory pulleys.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:05 AM
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I'd remove the vinyl top and refinish the metal as part of the rest of the bodywork. When you have finished with your sealer coat for the entire vehicle, I'd apply an extra coat of sealer (I use thinned epoxy primer) to the top area in preparation for a replacement vinyl top. With that protection you should never have to worry about rust there, again.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 08:32 PM
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Ok so how should I go about the process of painting if I do remove the vinyl top? I am thinking of having it done in shop just in case but not sure yet. May take off vinyl top off by myself and just get it painted in a shop. Also another question.... I have this pulley that I know is for the water pump but not sure where it goes... should it be connected (inverted over to where the actual pulley part is closest to water pump) to water pump and fan clutch etc.?
https://www.cjponyparts.com/water-pu...-1969/p/WPP24/
At the risk of sounding mean and rude ,This ain't rocket science
Maybe my approach isn't or you ,if not refer to Woodchuck's method


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agungoll View Post
Also another question.... I have this pulley that I know is for the water pump but not sure where it goes... should it be connected (inverted over to where the actual pulley part is closest to water pump) to water pump and fan clutch etc.?
https://www.cjponyparts.com/water-pu...-1969/p/WPP24/
Pull the fan, fan clutch, spacer (if used) and old pulley. Install new pulley on water pump, reinstall spacer (if used) fan clutch and fan.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 11:12 PM
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I'm no fan of vinyl tops in general, mind you, but some cars like the early mustangs make them look really nice.

4ocious, I'm normally in agreement with you. This isn't an exception.



@agungoll it's a tedious process and requires removing a lot of adhesive and fabric, welding in 3 holes on each side of the side sails, along with filling in the quarter panel to sail area. Also very likely you'll find that the top has many weak or rusted parts that will need patching before painting, which is a real good reason to remove the vinyl top regardless if you're going to ditch it or replace it. But it sounds like you don't shy away from hard work. Good luck!
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