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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Holley carb help

I just got a new Holley 600 cfm carburetor for my 289. It’s the 80457SA. What I am not sure about is how to connect my vacuum lines. I know the distributor advance goes in the side by the choke. There are two larger ports and both are full manifold vacuum, one is for the PCV, the back I am assuming? I need another for the line to the trans but it’s a small line to a big port. Is there an adapter I can use?
Also how do I get a key on 12V for the electric choke?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:24 PM
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When it comes to the electric choke, lots of folks recommend the STATOR or STA connection on the back of the alternator.



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:17 AM
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The PCV can be connected to one of the large ports on the carb base. I typically run it on the rearmost port and put the PCV valve in the passenger side valve cover. Most Holleys also have a small full vacuum port on the base, you can use that for your automatic trans vacuum modulator.

I've used the STA terminal on the alternator in the past with good results, but check it with a voltmeter with the engine running to ensure you are getting 12V. If not, you can either source a key on 12V power under the dash, or use the STA terminal to trigger a relay to give the choke 12V.



https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...arts/0-80457SA

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:43 AM
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For the trans, I used the stock vacuum block and put it on my Edelbrock intake.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 11:22 AM
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That's why they usually stick an instruction book in the box....

https://documents.holley.com/199r11081.pdf

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
That's why they usually stick an instruction book in the box....

https://documents.holley.com/199r11081.pdf
It just says to hook it up to a 12V supply, it doesn't suggest where.
Give me a little credit.

Thanks for the other useful replies. I'll test the STA on the alternator for 12 V. Will it be a problem temporarily to run it without the choke hooked up? The next big project is a new AAW wiring harness, and I'm fairly sure there is a 12V keyed line just for an electric choke on there.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
It just says to hook it up to a 12V supply, it doesn't suggest where.
Give me a little credit.

Thanks for the other useful replies. I'll test the STA on the alternator for 12 V. Will it be a problem temporarily to run it without the choke hooked up? The next big project is a new AAW wiring harness, and I'm fairly sure there is a 12V keyed line just for an electric choke on there.
LOL, usually I'm the one with the snarky responses.

You can loosen the screws on the choke cap and rotate it in the "lean" direction, which will disable the choke entirely. Only go far enough so that the choke plate is fully open and stays that way.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
It just says to hook it up to a 12V supply, it doesn't suggest where.
Give me a little credit.

Thanks for the other useful replies. I'll test the STA on the alternator for 12 V. Will it be a problem temporarily to run it without the choke hooked up? The next big project is a new AAW wiring harness, and I'm fairly sure there is a 12V keyed line just for an electric choke on there.
I was talking about the vacuum connections. As everybody else has said, alternator stator post is where Ford connected theirs. Note that the STA post will have NO voltage when the engine is not running (alternator spinning) and when it DOES have voltage it will be 1/2 of alternator output... not 12V but more than enough to heat up the choke heater.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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After another look at the manual, (thanks @Woodchuck) I needed a further look under the carb and right below and behind the big port in the front was a smaller port, perfect for the trans line. Hooked up the PCV to the rear and the dizzy advance on the side and fired it up. After a small gas leak and retightening of the fuel line hose clamp, it was running like a champ! But a bit on the rich side it seemed by the cloud of exhaust in my shop. So I think hooking up the choke is a good idea. I'll look for the STA but I have a 1 wire alternator, so I'm thinking I might not have one? After some searching on here, another temp idea might be the I post on the right side of the solenoid, but it won't be for long and then I'll start my AAW rewire.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.E View Post
After another look at the manual, (thanks @Woodchuck) I needed a further look under the carb and right below and behind the big port in the front was a smaller port, perfect for the trans line. Hooked up the PCV to the rear and the dizzy advance on the side and fired it up. After a small gas leak and retightening of the fuel line hose clamp, it was running like a champ! But a bit on the rich side it seemed by the cloud of exhaust in my shop. So I think hooking up the choke is a good idea. I'll look for the STA but I have a 1 wire alternator, so I'm thinking I might not have one? After some searching on here, another temp idea might be the I post on the right side of the solenoid, but it won't be for long and then I'll start my AAW rewire.
Depending on what alternator you have... a Motorcraft or Delcotron... will determine if you have a source available there. Avoid using anything connected to the solenoid, unless using a relay and connecting to the big lug at the front for your battery power source. You can trigger a relay for key "ON" power using the hot wire to the heater blower motor if needed, but I wouldn't go direct due to the amp load. GM wired their chokes through an oil pressure switch with a warning light which is another possibility if you want to tap an additional hole in your sender extension pipe.

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