Issues with New Engine... - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Issues with New Engine...

I broke in my rebuilt engine a couple of weeks ago. I ran Brad Penn Oil break in oil for my flat tappet cam. Ran it at 2000-2500 for 25 minutes.

The problem I am having is setting the timing. I can't the engine down to 750 rpm. I've set the static timing at 10deg BTDC but I can't get the rpms down. The engine is running at 1100. When I tried to set the timing 5deg BTDC it was way way down on power its like I was starting 3rd gear..it felt like I could walk faster than this car could go. And it way hot too at idel.



I have the choke open. I set 0 tdc by turning the engine over by hand using a stop. I did this a few times.



The only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak. That's my next step. Could be the base of my new carb/intake (both summit brands)? Or maybe the PCV valve is leaking? ...


Any suggestions?,


Thanks,
Dean

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:35 PM
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So you can't turn the carb idle screw down after setting to 10 BTDC? I guess confused since it sounds like you can set the timing to 10deg but then you should be able to turn down the idle screw on the carb to the RPMs you want. Or is it shutting off on you?

1967 Mustang Convertible, 289-4v, C4, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Mild Cam.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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So you can't turn the carb idle screw down after setting to 10 BTDC? I guess confused since it sounds like you can set the timing to 10deg but then you should be able to turn down the idle screw on the carb to the RPMs you want. Or is it shutting off on you?

Yep the screw its self is completely turned out. Its confusing to me too. That's why I'm scratching my head on this.

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 08:37 PM
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Yep the screw its self is completely turned out. Its confusing to me too. That's why I'm scratching my head on this.
That does hint toward a vacuum leak of some kind or something amiss in the new carb. We know nothing about this engine?

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 08:44 PM
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When you hook up a vacuum gauge to an intake manifold vacuum source what does it say?

What intake manifold, carburetor and carburetor spacer are you using?

Bart

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 08:58 PM
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Ditto, what was stated.......are the throttle blades closed when you back out the throttle idle screw all the way? Check your throttle linkage is free.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Its a 289 rebuilt heads block is .40 over. 9.8 comp. It has a mild/moderate cam -Melling MTF-5. Valve lift is .450 intake/.474 exhaust. 107/117 overlap.


I'm using the spacer that comes with the carb (500). It might be binding I'll have to check. The plugs look good all light brown, the oil pressure is 60 cold/50 hot. But it can't run - its so soft my old six cylinder could walk it,

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:38 PM
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That spacer is to keep the carb from binding.

Disconnect and cap all your vacuum sources and see if that makes a difference.

If it does, add them back in one at a time.


1965 Mustang Coupe 289/C4
1967 Mustang Coupe 200/C4
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 09:38 PM
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its so soft my old six cylinder could walk it,

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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I'm ticked. This has been by far the worst build I've been apart of. Nothing is easy with this car. Its always something. for example I pull out today to test drive it and as I'm pulling back to the end of the driveway I see a puddle that wasn't there before and trail of oil...I stop the car and I'm thinking what the H...? I must have knocked the oil line when I was taking out the plugs and can see the line had snapped at the base..ugh..this driveway has more fluid spilled by me in two weeks with this car than in 20 years. What a mess. Asphalt and oil is not a great combination - softens it up. Just another day the life of a mustang owner.
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Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 10:57 PM
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I'm ticked. This has been by far the worst build I've been apart of. Nothing is easy with this car. Its always something. for example I pull out today to test drive it and as I'm pulling back to the end of the driveway I see a puddle that wasn't there before and trail of oil...I stop the car and I'm thinking what the H...? I must have knocked the oil line when I was taking out the plugs and can see the line had snapped at the base..ugh..this driveway has more fluid spilled by me in two weeks with this car than in 20 years. What a mess. Asphalt and oil is not a great combination - softens it up. Just another day the life of a mustang owner.
Feel free to go back in the posts up until last year on my 331 saga. Motor in and out of the car 6 times with as many incompetent machine shops to diagnose improper machining of a Chinese Scat crankshaft. Even when I only wanted only to have the machine shop match the flywheel end of the Scat crankshaft with the original 289 crankshaft that took 2 incompetent machine shops to do that only half-azz right. Many thousands of dollars wasted! I feel your pain!

When I hit the gas at the start of an autocross run it's worth the journey!

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Feel free to go back in the posts up until last year on my 331 saga. Motor in and out of the car 6 times with as many incompetent machine shops to diagnose improper machining of a Chinese Scat crankshaft. Even when I only wanted only to have the machine shop match the flywheel end of the Scat crankshaft with the original 289 crankshaft that took 2 incompetent machine shops to do that only half-azz right. Many thousands of dollars wasted! I feel your pain!

When I hit the gas at the start of an autocross run it's worth the journey!

I did read your story - and it was great that you were able to resolve it. I don't think I would have had the patience. Taking the engine out twice was enough..lol.. I used most of my vacation time working on this car and its an hour away so I don't have the luxury of popping into the garage to check something or fiddle with it. Ugh.

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 11:11 PM
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You have a huge air leak somewhere.

Cliff
1966 Blue Hardtop. 200 CID with 3 Speed Trans
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 08:24 AM
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What carb? Some Holley's and Summit have a secondary idle screw. The one on my summit was cracked opened and I could not get the idle down.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 08:34 AM
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Here is a video on how to adjust the secondary idle screw. It is for Holley but the same for Summit. I think for your application it should be completely closed. The best way is to remove the carb turn the screw until you see the secondary throttle plates are closed.

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how...holley_carbs_/
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