PowerNation 347ci 400hp Video! - Vintage Mustang Forums
 3Likes
  • 1 Post By mike306
  • 1 Post By cheapbastard
  • 1 Post By Grimbrand
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Mustmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2,196
PowerNation 347ci 400hp Video!

Here's Part I. They include a parts list with links on their YouTube page. Goods stuff...400hp!

These guys do a great job.



Here is Part I power tuning to the 347ci with 455hp. They have a parts list with links on the YouTube page...


Matt
Brea, CA

1965 Mustang Coupe 289 a/t Build Thread
1967 Firebird 400 4sp
1967 GTO 400 a/t
2015 Hyundai Santa Fe
Mustmatt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Mustmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2,196
Correction...looks like 566hp on pump gas for Part II (2nd video)

Matt
Brea, CA

1965 Mustang Coupe 289 a/t Build Thread
1967 Firebird 400 4sp
1967 GTO 400 a/t
2015 Hyundai Santa Fe
Mustmatt is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:38 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: far east north corner of Texas
Posts: 6,689
Garage
That is a stock block build too. Based on the everybody's comments I read when I was working on my build isn't 566 pushing or may be somewhat past the stock block's horsepower limits? It is N/A though and a lot of the carnage I saw was boosted set ups so it may have a lot to do with the boost. After all that research I thought I had something of a consensus answer on this stock block question and now I don't know again.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation
macstang is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 01:06 AM
Senior Member
 
Grimbrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
Posts: 774
Yeah, Macstang, this is a nice dyno queen, but honestly, it's beyond what would be realistic for a car you drive a bunch. 500+ horses through a stock block, even with a girdle, is a ticking timebomb of fail.


Using good build practices, ensuring that everything's balanced, lightweight reciprocating parts, tolerances checked carefully, sharp edges chamfered, etc. etc. etc - all that stuff will help ANY engine last longer. However, the limit here is just how much force a stock 302/289 block can take. The beautiful but tiny Windsor smallblock is at the ragged edge at around 500 hp. After putting all that time and effort into a motor, I sure wouldn't want to find out how long it lasts, the hard way.


I think 400 is 'safe'. 450 is *probably* safe given careful attention to details. But 500+ can be expected to fail. There are a few guys who have made many passes on their 5.0 engines at this power level, and didn't blow up, but those engines are absolutely remarkable and any race builder would tell you the same. They were expected to blow up. It's a miracle, not the status quo.

"No matter what you are, be the best one you can." -Abraham Lincoln
Grimbrand is online now  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Mustmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2,196
Quote:
Originally Posted by macstang View Post
That is a stock block build too. Based on the everybody's comments I read when I was working on my build isn't 566 pushing or may be somewhat past the stock block's horsepower limits? It is N/A though and a lot of the carnage I saw was boosted set ups so it may have a lot to do with the boost. After all that research I thought I had something of a consensus answer on this stock block question and now I don't know again.
Yeah, I heard that too. My research said anything over 400hp would be pushing it.

Matt
Brea, CA

1965 Mustang Coupe 289 a/t Build Thread
1967 Firebird 400 4sp
1967 GTO 400 a/t
2015 Hyundai Santa Fe
Mustmatt is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 09:18 AM
Member
 
cheapbastard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: michigan
Posts: 63
A lot depends on how many rpm it takes to get to peak horsepower. Sometimes boosted builds can last longer as they can make power at a much lower rpm. Balance plays a role too as it seems a neutral balance may live longer. However, as everyone has said that certainly seems to be pushing their luck. When I rebuild mine (assuming I can reuse the 73 block I have now) I plan on only using a cast stroker crank as I don't see the point of using forged in a stock block where the block is the weak link.

It sucks to get old but at least the expectations are lower. 65 mustang coupe, 306, 10.4 compression, 180cc homeported Chinese heads, funnel web, t5z, 4.56 gears in a 9 inch locker
cheapbastard is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 10:12 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 192
Cool they got that much horsepower, but I wonder how street-able that build would be.
Grimbrand likes this.
mike306 is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Mustmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2,196
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike306 View Post
Cool they got that much horsepower, but I wonder how street-able that build would be.
500hp is probably not very good for the street. I don't know anyone who would daily drive something like that. I've never seen it either. Interesting though for the track.

The build in Part I is probably more reasonable and should be easier and probably fun to drive assuming the rest of the car is built to handle it.

Matt
Brea, CA

1965 Mustang Coupe 289 a/t Build Thread
1967 Firebird 400 4sp
1967 GTO 400 a/t
2015 Hyundai Santa Fe
Mustmatt is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 09:49 PM
Member
 
cheapbastard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: michigan
Posts: 63
Everyone's definition of streetable is different.

I watched the videos and I think the first build is pretty doable but still pushing the block. They made peak power at 6700 rpm so you would shift it around 7000 rpm with a manual. They mentioned that it was also about 10.5 compression on 93 octane. All of these issues affect what you consider streetable. My little 306 probably makes peak power at a bit less than 6500 and I shift it around 6800 to 6900. It has about the same compression with only 32-34 degrees of total timing and I would be scared to run it on less than 93 octane. I have a 4:56 gear so it is easy to get it in it's power band and I don't have to worry about it being sluggish in the lower rpm band even with a big single plane. I drive it to work many days in city traffic and have driven 80 miles round trip on country roads. For me that's streetable and that is probably similar to how this engine would be. With the big single plane and fairly high peak power it would also benefit from deep gears. Many folks are not comfortable with that for street car but I could see myself building something similar in a stroker except I would probably use a solid flat tappet camshaft and a cast crank.

The second engine is more of the above. You would need to mix in octane booster, use race gas or convert it to E85. A lot of people don't want to do that to their street car. It would probably be a track only thing or just a weekend toy. Not to mention the possibility of the block splitting in two from the power level.
Grimbrand likes this.

It sucks to get old but at least the expectations are lower. 65 mustang coupe, 306, 10.4 compression, 180cc homeported Chinese heads, funnel web, t5z, 4.56 gears in a 9 inch locker
cheapbastard is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 12:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Grimbrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
Posts: 774
As a weekend car that you could take someplace in a pinch, I think the original build would be all right. The second build though is pushing everything to the limits awfully far. It would not be a car you could enjoy in stop and go traffic, and if you got a bad tank of gas or something, your fun would be over in a hurry. Or, just one hard pass down the strip, and BLAMMO, you split right down the lifter valley and done.



IMHO, it's just not a good build for a real car. The wow factor of that dyno sheet is nice, but you'd be too worried about breaking it, until it actually DID break, especially with all the money they spent. Better to start with a few dollars more and just get a good aftermarket block, so those fears could be laid to rest.
Mustmatt likes this.

"No matter what you are, be the best one you can." -Abraham Lincoln
Grimbrand is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome