1966 mustang power brake booster install - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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1966 mustang power brake booster install

Anyone added a power brake booster with dual bowl master cylinder to 66 mustang cylinder automatic and kept your stock drum brakes up front ? any issues with doing that ? what parts supplier did you use for the booster ?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 08:56 PM
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Seems like we talk about this every week. Is there a particular reason you feel you need or want a power brake booster in your car? There are probably several here that have done it. There are probably just as many that have tried it and removed it. A brake booster is not going to make your car stop any better. Itís only going to reduce pedal effort.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 09:06 PM
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If the OP is thinking that the booster will improve the performance of his drum brakes he is in for a big lesson in brake performance after he completes the booster installation and finds his car doesn't stop any better than it did before.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Really only want to change because of the single bowl master cylinder , it anything ever goes wrong , all the brakes will fail .Want to go with the dual bowl master cylinder , mainly for safty reasons. Thanks.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 08:45 PM
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Anyone added a power brake booster with dual bowl master cylinder to 66 mustang cylinder automatic and kept your stock drum brakes up front ? any issues with doing that ? what parts supplier did you use for the booster ?
So I asked the same question a while back and despite numerous people around here saying I didn't need it, I thought that my poor braking would be helped by a booster. I put the booster on and the car still didn't stop great, I just didn't have to put as much pressure on the pedal to get the same affect. Turns out my rear drums needed to be replaced. Now the car stops great with just a slight tap on the pedal. It's a little too easy for me. I'm gonna pull mine off and go back to non powered brakes. I liked the "feel" of the prior system I had.

I'm pretty new to this classic car thing, but trust me, there is tons of knowledge in here. Listen to what they all say........you don't need a booster. You just need well adjusted brakes.

I would consider a dual bowl master cylinder specific for manual drum brakes. Just for the safety aspect.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 09:25 PM
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have a new question - If instead i upgrade to front power disc brakes with booster and dual bowl master cylinder , is there anyone that makes a disc brake conversion kit that will let me use my original steel wheels on my 1966 6 cylinder ?. I would like to keep my stock hubcaps . I looked at several suppliers and dont see anyone that offers that.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 05:47 AM
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelby1969 View Post
I have a new question - If instead i upgrade to front power disc brakes with booster and dual bowl master cylinder , is there anyone that makes a disc brake conversion kit that will let me use my original steel wheels on my 1966 6 cylinder ?. I would like to keep my stock hubcaps . I looked at several suppliers and dont see anyone that offers that.
Did you look at ChockoStang website. He is a member here and you can look up feedback from other members.

Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering

66 Mustang Convertible
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 08:48 PM
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I just took my booster off tonight. Just need to bend some new lines and I'll let you know the difference. I have disks front and drums rear. If you are still really dying for a power booster, I might sell you mine cheap. Got it from NPD. Bolts right up to a dual bowl MC and has the pedal adapter that changes the fulcrum to make it correct for power brakes. Find a vacuum source and run some new lines and you're good to go............but remember, some very smart people around here are telling you you don't need the booster.

I'll post over the next couple of days what I think of the braking with and without the booster.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ophthos View Post
I just took my booster off tonight. Just need to bend some new lines and I'll let you know the difference. I have disks front and drums rear. If you are still really dying for a power booster, I might sell you mine cheap. Got it from NPD. Bolts right up to a dual bowl MC and has the pedal adapter that changes the fulcrum to make it correct for power brakes. Find a vacuum source and run some new lines and you're good to go............but remember, some very smart people around here are telling you you don't need the booster.

I'll post over the next couple of days what I think of the braking with and without the booster.
OP Might want to listen to this message.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 11:37 PM
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@ophthos made a great comment on making sure everything is working correctly first
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 12:37 AM
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My 65 is disc/drum. No need for a booster, if there was a need, I would put it on.

My 67 is drum/drum with a booster. The booster needs to be rebuilt so I would remove it except on a 67 manual and power brakes use a different pedal.

Spend your money on a disc upgrade, rebuild the rear drum brakes and a dual master.

The dual master is a nice upgrade, but your car has made it 50+ years on the single.

Learn to use the emergency brake as your backup if you loose brakes, thats how it was done for many many years.


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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. Great feedback from everyone. Thanks
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 10:28 AM
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Friction material. Get some good pads/shoes...... not the chain store crap.
Big difference.

One of my close friends has a shop and has done that scarebird front disc
kit a couple of times so that the original rims could be maintained.
1) the bracketry is pretty wimpy, he copies the originals but fabs thicker brackets
2) mishmash of caliper and rotors are used..... some folks don't care, some do.
The mechanic 5 years down the road will wonder what's on there though.


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