So today I finally got a custom alignment after the new springs have settled in. She’s had new rear leafs and a mostly new front end. New Bilstein shocks too. New 302 etc all restored and it’s a power steering car. Pretty much stock suspension and ride height.
I asked the shop to put it at:
Total toe 1/8
Insisted they not use the 68’ OE specs that were for skinny bias ply in the old days. Did research and most recommend the above specs.
It drives with much more stability and was pulling sharp left before with wheel at 1 o’clock.
Now the left pulling is mostly gone but still tends slightly left and is affected by road crown. Wheel is now around the 2 o’clock position (noticeably to the right) Some steer box slop but not terrible.
I have my own alignment rack avail to use at my Army base shop if I want to tweak it.
I’m wondering should I loose up the steering wheel and center it myself or try to do do some tweaking first?
2nd Photo is what it’s now set to 😁
Just some observations.....
Camber should not be unequal on a street car. You can, however, split
caster to compensate for road crown.
If you ran the tires for any appreciable time with the old "alignment,"
you can get some continuing funky behavior for a period of time because
the tires wore in based upon the old alignment.
Did the alignment people put your weight into the driver's seat when they
did the alignment?
As mentioned, the steering wheel is centered via the tie rod adjusting sleeves.
Don't pull the steering wheel to try to accomplish that. After the adjusting sleeves
are set correctly, then you would "clock" the steering wheel.
ex-Global West GM