Hydraulic Clutch & Power Brake Booster? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hydraulic Clutch & Power Brake Booster?

On a 67/68, can you install a hydraulic clutch master cylinder (CNC, Wilwood, etc.) if you have a Bendix-style power brake booster?

I realize that CNC used to sell a specially angled MC to help clear a booster, but not anymore. I'm on my second fried cable, so I'm thinking about biting the bullet and going hydro.

Anyone successfully do this?

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 05:35 PM
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I have a straight CNC Master in the 67 hole.. I can fit a piece of paper between the bendix booster and the master. I Mean, it's sitting on a flimsy firewall, so I can fit more if I just bend it out of the way..

However, I'm finding that in the stock hole, which requires moving the mounting point approx 1" down and 1" out on the a 67 pedal, really gives you a herculean clutch pedal.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hey JohnnyK - Thanks - it's good to know that it will fit. And BTW - What do you mean by Herculean? Do you mean that the pedal is now much harder to push in than before?

Over 100,000 miles spiritedly driven since 2006!
Formula for a daily driver street fighter in Los Angeles:
'67 Fastback + Built 351W + T5 + 3.55:1 + LTs + 2.5" + 40s + TT2 17"
+ Arning drop + CSRP + R&P + Bilsteins + SFCs + under riders + 22 Gal.
+ 3pts + 2nd Skin + MTF grille/lights + LEDs + BlueTooth + SiriusXM

MTF Grille/Light Kit Install w/ Pics... & Engine Bay Pics...
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 08:43 PM
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch & Power Brake Booster?

Not sure if the '67/'68 is different in this regard, but I'm running the angled CNC hydraulic clutch with a Bendix booster on my '69. Plenty of room between the 2. The angled master goes in the stock hole and mounts to the stock pin on the clutch pedal with no modifications. Pedal effort is about the same, or easier, than my son's Honda.




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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 08:50 PM
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I mean this clutch takes about 5x the force as my buddies 04 civic.. I'm not sure why! Nobody else seems to have this problem. I never pushed on an original pedal to compare, but if it's lowered an inch, which it will be if you look under there, the effort is obviously going to go up. I wonder how others dealt with this.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hydraulic Clutch & Power Brake Booster?

Thanks Johnpro - I wish CNC still made those angled ones....

From my MVF and google reading, others have had to lower the clutch pedal mounting point approx 1" for 65/66 cars only. From what I've read, the normal clutch rod mounting point on a 67/68 can be used for the MC rod. But then again, this might have been for those using the angled CNC MC.

From JohnnyK's post, it looks like we now how to move the mounting point approx 1" lower on 67/68s as well when using the straight CNC MCs. Anyone have thoughts on this?


Over 100,000 miles spiritedly driven since 2006!
Formula for a daily driver street fighter in Los Angeles:
'67 Fastback + Built 351W + T5 + 3.55:1 + LTs + 2.5" + 40s + TT2 17"
+ Arning drop + CSRP + R&P + Bilsteins + SFCs + under riders + 22 Gal.
+ 3pts + 2nd Skin + MTF grille/lights + LEDs + BlueTooth + SiriusXM

MTF Grille/Light Kit Install w/ Pics... & Engine Bay Pics...
As featured in Hot Rod Magazine tech article, May 2014
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 09:22 AM
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I'm using a JMC unit on mine, not sure if it's the same thing as the CNC or not but I had to fabricate a bracket for my clutch pedal to locate the m/c rod in the correct location so it pushes straight into the cylinder. When I had it attached directly to the pedal it offset the rod and also wouldn't allow it to return all the way back out of the cylinder to the normal rest position.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 09:37 AM
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My CNC master is mounted in the stock clutch rod hole and I just pulled my pedal out this week and drilled a new hole about 1" down so the rod is straight. I dont have a picture of under the dash or the pedal but I can snap one later if anyone needs one. Here is a picture (or two) of the engine bay side showing the CNC master as well as the SSBC prop valve and my MC (which is coming back out tonight for paint, the flash rust looks like crap)





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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. And fast68back (PM'd), I would love to see a photo of your pedal if you happen to take that shaphot.

Over 100,000 miles spiritedly driven since 2006!
Formula for a daily driver street fighter in Los Angeles:
'67 Fastback + Built 351W + T5 + 3.55:1 + LTs + 2.5" + 40s + TT2 17"
+ Arning drop + CSRP + R&P + Bilsteins + SFCs + under riders + 22 Gal.
+ 3pts + 2nd Skin + MTF grille/lights + LEDs + BlueTooth + SiriusXM

MTF Grille/Light Kit Install w/ Pics... & Engine Bay Pics...
As featured in Hot Rod Magazine tech article, May 2014
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Hydraulic Clutch & Power Brake Booster?

BTW - Please stop me before I do anything else to the 67 in this corner of the engine bay. Back when I had simple 4-wheel manual drums, all that was there was only a simple master cylinder, and I had plenty of room in that corner.

Not, it's getting cluttered up to the point where I can't even get my hands in there anymore. The power brake booster, rear brake proportioning valve, and the line lock, and all of their plumbing, really take up A LOT of space. And now I'm going to add a hyd clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, and plumbing to boot! This is not going to be easy...

Over 100,000 miles spiritedly driven since 2006!
Formula for a daily driver street fighter in Los Angeles:
'67 Fastback + Built 351W + T5 + 3.55:1 + LTs + 2.5" + 40s + TT2 17"
+ Arning drop + CSRP + R&P + Bilsteins + SFCs + under riders + 22 Gal.
+ 3pts + 2nd Skin + MTF grille/lights + LEDs + BlueTooth + SiriusXM

MTF Grille/Light Kit Install w/ Pics... & Engine Bay Pics...
As featured in Hot Rod Magazine tech article, May 2014
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 01:54 PM
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch & Power Brake Booster?

I hear that, I need to put the speedo cable in tonight while I have the brake MC out, may as well leave it all out until this weekend when I can run the lines for the remote reservoir and clutch MC, that is if I can ever find a mounting bracket for it....


-Rick
IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS,
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 02:03 PM
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fast68back: So you just moved the mounting point down, but not out? So your rod must really be angled to the side? I made a U shaped bracket that I welded to the pedal which moves it about an inch down and an inch out. THe inch out won't affect the leverage, but she's still stiff as hell. BEnt the firewall before I had a booster in there.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 02:18 PM
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The pushrod is not bolted to the clutch pedal yet, but I can see that there is a gap between rod and the pedal that I'll beed to fill with a spacer, perhaps a washer and spherical. If I tried to bolt it the way it is now it would force the rod to not be straight. The new hole in the clutch pedal is just lower than the stock mounting point by about an inch. I'll post the pics in here later tonight.


-Rick
IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS,
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 03:17 PM
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That would be awesome. Maybe I can grab some tonight as well, and we can compare.. So you haven't pushed on the thing yet eh?
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 03:28 PM
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No, nothing is connected other than the MC mounted on the firewall. I'm trying to locate a bracket to mount the remote reservoir to the firewall. I bought a CNC billet reservoir. It comes with a bulkhead fitting mounted. I was trying to find a billet L bracket or something that I could use to mount it with.

Looks like this:



-Rick
IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS,
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