Electric choke carburetor wiring - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
kal
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Electric choke carburetor wiring

Ok, I know very little about this topic. I have a 67 convertible with an 85 mustang 5.0 engine in it (3 speed automatic transmission). When I bought the car last year, my mechanic recommended an Edelbrock 4bbl electric choke carburetor. When he installed it, he wired the black to the ground (carb body, per Edelbrock's instructions) and wired the red directly to the solenoid (picture is attached). Edelbrock says it should be wired "to ignition key activated 12V source (NOT COIL OR ALTERNATOR!)". Two questions:
Is the solenoid a proper or workable place to power from? I know very little about solenoids (is it an "ignition key activated" source?).
If so, the solenoid has two leads: an S (on the left) and an I (on the right). The carb wasn't wired to it very well and the red carb wire has fallen off of the solenoid. Should I be hooking it up to the S or I lead (I'm assuming S, since another red wire is feeding off of it, but would rather know for sure).

The car is running fine now, but I'd imagine this should be properly hooked up. Thanks for any advice.
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Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).

Last edited by kal; 05-24-2010 at 12:51 PM.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 12:56 PM
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Nooooooooo

the hot wire to the (+) side of the choke should be ingition on position switchble,

the solenoid S lead is only hot while cranking and the I lead is only there to momentarly by pass the ign resistior wire to deliver 12 full volts to the coil while cranking.

so the way youe mech has it the choke is only working for a few seconds which is not nealy enough to to open it

EDIT: if you wire it to the sol batt terminal(the large red wires) the choke will always be on and eventually burn out and will discharge your batt.
when i did one of my old stangs I wired the choke right from the assy terminal of the fuse block. just make sure its a switchable terminal as some are always hot
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Last edited by Blues Power; 05-24-2010 at 01:04 PM.
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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That makes sense. Thanks Blues. I guess this means I've been driving it without a choke for a year now. Can you recommend the best way to hook it up? Do I run the wire through the firewall and onto the back of the ignition switch somewhere?

Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
That makes sense. Thanks Blues. I guess this means I've been driving it without a choke for a year now. Can you recommend the best way to hook it up? Do I run the wire through the firewall and onto the back of the ignition switch somewhere?

there are a few ways which im not going to get into SO see my edit in post one for imo the best way

1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the power train
351C 2v FMX.


1993 GT 13,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Bought 8/3/93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof, AC. Unmolested all original car. Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid.
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 01:36 PM
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This comes up a LOT. I've been happy with the Edelbrock on SWMBO's car hooked up to the stator (or "STA") post on the back of of the alternator. Six or seven years now as a daily driver and the choke's been faultless. Yes, I know what Edelbrock's say. It's a blanket statement. Try hooking to the stator on on a late model Chrysler or GM alternator and you would certainly be asking for trouble.
Up until the early 1980's about every Ford made had its choke wired to the stator terminal. Believe it or not, a Carter/Edelbrock choke is pretty much identical to a 1970's Ford choke. So is a Holley, come to think of it.
Or you can wire it up some other way. Nothing else is simpler though.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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But given that my engine is a 1985, does it still make sense to wire to the alternator?

Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 03:12 PM
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In the example I give above of what I have done to "SWMBO's car" perhaps I could clarify that SWMBO's car is in fact a 1986 Mustang with a 5.0 engine. Somewhat modified. I not long ago tore down a 1985 Mustang GT for a rebuild and the factory Holley carb's choke on it was wired to the stator post of the alternator. Original wiring.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ahh. I see. Thanks Gypsy. This'll be my first task this weekend. Thanks for the advice everyone.

Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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I realized I should ask this now, rather than while I'm tackling the job: Is the STA post typically labeled on the alternator? If not, is there a way for me to diagnose which post it is? I'm not that familiar with alternators (yet).

Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 11:14 AM
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Wired my electric choke to the "STA" stator on alternator. It's how it was done on some cars in the '60's I've read. It works for me, no problems. I believe it's not full 12v but good enough to trigger choke. This way I don't have wires running all over, nice and neat.

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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 11:45 PM
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Yes, it's marked. Actually cast into the case of the alternator as "STA". On most Mustangs that don't have a "Gen" or "ALT" warning light on the dash, the stator post doesn't have a wire on it. Unless an original electric factory choke is still hooked up.
Incidentally, Ford produced literally millions of cars with their electric chokes connected to the stator terminals.
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 09:31 AM
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other options for electric choke hook up

i've read where some have spliced their electric choke wire into a wire running along the firewall to the blower motor. if i do this which wire should i splice into ? the blower motor in our 65 has 2 wires running into it- a brown one and a yellow one.

right now i have the electric choke wire connected to the rear post (toward the back of the car) of the solenoid. that post has the starter relay, the cable that runs to the starter. i don't have the choke wire connected to either of the smaller posts (S or I) on the front of the solenoid. can someone please comment as to if this will work or not ?

i'm having very hard starting when the car is warm and i suspect the choke is the root of the problem. its nearly June and i've hardly driven the car this year due to this issue.

thanks much-

65 A code Silverblue convert T5 & 5.0 swap
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 09:32 AM
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A factor to consider wiring the choke is that when wired to key switched source, as long as key is on, it's heating the choke. Fine for a car that starts right up. However, with a hard to start vehicle or you turn key and don't start it will open the choke anyway. Hooked to the stator, it only provides power once the engine has started. As long as everything is working properly, won't make any diff. Just something to be aware of.

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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the advice. There was indeed nothing currently hooked on the Stator post and it was stamped STA. Seems to be working well now. Thanks guys.

Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Update: I've since checked the voltage and it appears the that, at idle, the STA post on the altnernator is putting out around 6v, which is significantly less than the recommended 12v. Does this mean the electric choke is never fully opening, since it's only getting about half the recommended voltage?

Jim
1967 Red (black top) convertible 1985 Mustang 302 engine.
Automatic (with console).
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