Rustoleum paint job? - Vintage Mustang Forums
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
elizabeth68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 508
Rustoleum paint job?

Anybody here ever try it? Someone told me acrylic enamel is acrylic enamel, don't matter what the brand.

I read online tht hot rod magazine did a flat black paint job with the rustoleum flat black. The car looked awesome. Plus for the price of the gallon?! You can't go wrong!

Anybody?

1967 Chevy Camaro - Affordably Flat Paiting - Hot Rod Magazine


68' Coupe
86' "F" Code 302
E7 Heads
Edelbrock 600 CFM
Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
C4
elizabeth68 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
elizabeth68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 508
Pardon the chevy... It's for the article!


68' Coupe
86' "F" Code 302
E7 Heads
Edelbrock 600 CFM
Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
C4
elizabeth68 is offline  
post #3 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 05:45 AM
Senior Member
 
TommyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 1,442
Haven't tried it but if you are looking for an interim step to improve the look of your car but can't afford a complete paint job and your car is in primer, I would consider spraying the car with black SPI epoxy which will give the same effect. It has UV inhibitors so will stand up to the sun for a while and won't have to be stripped off to continue body and paint work. I guess if you are spraying over an existing paint job that has to be stripped later that isn't an issue.

Depending on where you are in the body work/paint process, with epoxy you are arguably taking a step forward. With enamel you are taking two steps back.

1973 Mustang Convertible
460
TommyK is offline  
 
post #4 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 08:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brunswick MD
Posts: 1,187
Send a message via AIM to timthechef
A couple of months back there was a thread from some one who had used Rustoleum to paint their car. You may want to do a thread search. I'm pretty sure there were pictures and everything.

1964 1/2 coupe with a 289 V8 automatic.
timthechef is offline  
post #5 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 08:22 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 1,471
There is a red one on the forum that was done with rust oleum and it was a nice 5-foot paint job. Before mine was painted I experimented with it. I tried rolling it with foam rollers (lots of Internet threads about this) and spraying with HVLP. I learned enough to say that if you are a very patient person (which I am not) you can roll the paint on. I found a cheap HVLP to be sufficient to spray some thinned Enamel and it looks just fine.

My experiments were documented, but there is other work mixed in, so you'll have to sift through the thread, but it starts here:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post3769925


Last edited by ajzride; 04-19-2014 at 08:26 AM.
ajzride is offline  
post #6 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 08:44 AM
Senior Member
 
sdmustangrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Imperial Beach, Ca
Posts: 3,355
I did a rustoleum paint job with the can before. It came out pretty good for being cans, but my main use was just to protect it until I got my paint job, and to get rid of the flat green color. I got the flat black rustoleum, but I switched to plasti dip matte black just because this black is what I'm looking for. Only temporary, but just until I'm ready to paint. At least with these can jobs if someone scratches your car, you can repair it within minutes. LoL

Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
T5z manual swap
Weiand Stealth Intake/Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe/Dynomax
Ride tech air ride with 4 link/Global West Arms
Global West Adjustable Struts/CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-lok


GO RAIDERS!

Last edited by sdmustangrider; 04-19-2014 at 08:46 AM.
sdmustangrider is offline  
post #7 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 10:51 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 9,087
I like TommyK's idea. Just shoot it with black epoxy primer. That stuff has a semigloss finish that would probably look better than Rustoleum enamel. And it offers outstanding protection against the elements. When you're ready for paint, you need only lightly sand the epoxy primer.

I find it interesting that paint jobs are now so expensive, many car enthusiasts are simply not doing it. Maybe this will help to bring down the cost of a paint job.

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
Klutch is offline  
post #8 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 12:35 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: sw. florida ,port charlotte
Posts: 4,464
I painted one of my mavericks using tractor supply enamel and it came out just acceptable but need fish eye eliminator added to be ok. I still have enough left to respray which I plan on doing come fall. It took about 3 days before the finish wasn't tacky. Send me a pm with your email and I will forward a couple of pics. wes
mustang656man is offline  
post #9 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 12:44 PM
Senior Member
 
RavenBlack1970Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang656man View Post
It took about 3 days before the finish wasn't tacky??
Likely because you did not buy the catalyst to add to it. It hardens it fairly quickly. I used the same implement paint on a trailer of mine and it is some pretty resilient stuff!

1970 Mach 1, 351C-4v, FMX, everything black - restored in '13 for the wife.
1947 Ford 1.5 Ton Flatbed truck -restored in '07
1930 Ford AA Doodlebug tractor - unrestored, as built during WW2
2010 F-350 King Ranch, Crew diesel
2013 Lincoln MKT
.....and my son's name is Ford... I still can't believe that the wife let that one go!...
RavenBlack1970Mach is offline  
post #10 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 12:49 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: sw. florida ,port charlotte
Posts: 4,464
I don't wear a resperator when I paint so I don't add the catalyst or use any other type modern paint. wes
mustang656man is offline  
post #11 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 02:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Woodchuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
Posts: 32,462
Send a message via Yahoo to Woodchuck
I've done many a Rustoleum paint job...not aerosol, but using quarts or gallons. Use ordinary enamel reducer for thinning and cleanup, add a couple drops of fisheye eliminator and, by all means, add hardener for acrylic enamel, either some stuff from the local body and paint store, or use Rustoleum's own 206201 Acrylic Hardener.

It's ALWAYS a good idea to use a respirator when spraying paint, and acrylic hardeners don't contain isocyanates so a cheap Home Depot respirator will suffice, especially if the "booth" has good ventilation.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

Woodchuck is offline  
post #12 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 03:05 PM
Senior Member
 
Wayne67vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 568
Garage
I did my old Chevy truck with a quart of Royal Blue Rustoleum. I thinned it 50% with mineral spirits. I applied 5 coats, wet sanding between each one.

I'm pleased with the final outcome.




Wayne

1967 C code convertible

When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Wayne67vert is offline  
post #13 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 06:07 PM
Senior Member
 
sirbevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Holland, Mi
Posts: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klutch View Post
I like TommyK's idea. Just shoot it with black epoxy primer. That stuff has a semigloss finish that would probably look better than Rustoleum enamel. And it offers outstanding protection against the elements. When you're ready for paint, you need only lightly sand the epoxy primer.

I find it interesting that paint jobs are now so expensive, many car enthusiasts are simply not doing it. Maybe this will help to bring down the cost of a paint job.
My take on it is.....if it's a real deal classic per say a 65 fastback 4-speed or a code that is highly sought after, then ya, get the 10k paint job because of the value they hold. I have a C-code coupe. Paying that kind of money for a paint job that will only satisfy me and not bring hardly any added value to a coupe.... DIY single stage baby! Plus I DRIVE IT and don't worry about imperfections due to road gravel, etc. If it gets damaged, I redo it. Simple as that.

If I had a 10k paint job, I wouldn't want to take it out of the garage.

Go get a HF HVLP turbine and have fun. Mess it up? Redo it!
sirbevo is offline  
post #14 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 08:32 PM
Senior Member
 
tom991's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL but currently live in Germany
Posts: 2,819
Back in the 70s, I bought a 65 Coupe for $50. Ran well. but the paint was shot. I got a couple of cases of acrylic enamel rattle cans and had at it. The paint was dull until I started buffing it out then it looked like the paint had depth. I probably put too much paint on it but after a couple of weeks buffing and compounding the car looking really good. I didn't prime it, I just sanded the original paint and started spaying.

Then there was a guy across the street from us who masked off this 66 Tempest. didn't know what he was up to. He proceeded to paint his car with brushes. We were laughing about it until he buffed it out with a machine. The it looked good.
tom991 is offline  
post #15 of 62 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 07:02 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Burlington,NC
Posts: 562
This is getting me curious to try it,,maybe on my hood since it has to be replaced anyway
Rogwing is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome