About to pull 289 for first time - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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About to pull 289 for first time

Hi guys---I have a 65 coupe with a 289 and c4-----I have my 1 ton Harbor Freight engine hoist and engine leveler ready to go. I want to pull both the engine and tranny at the same time (one unit). Engine is unhooked except for the motor mounts at the moment. C4 still needs to be unhooked. I have a few questions:

1) Since I'm pulling them both as one unit---what do I need to unhook on the c4?...I'd prefer to keep as many of the connections untouched as possible and keep it tethered to the engine but not sure what still has to be unhooked to get it out.
2) On the engine leveler, where are most people attaching the leveler (which holes)?
3)Anybody know what bolt size I might need to use with the leveler on the block?

Thanks in advance if anybody can help---I appreciate it!---B
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btoonz View Post
Hi guys---I have a 65 coupe with a 289 and c4-----I have my 1 ton Harbor Freight engine hoist and engine leveler ready to go. I want to pull both the engine and tranny at the same time (one unit). Engine is unhooked except for the motor mounts at the moment. C4 still needs to be unhooked. I have a few questions:

1) Since I'm pulling them both as one unit---what do I need to unhook on the c4?...I'd prefer to keep as many of the connections untouched as possible and keep it tethered to the engine but not sure what still has to be unhooked to get it out.
2) On the engine leveler, where are most people attaching the leveler (which holes)?
3)Anybody know what bolt size I might need to use with the leveler on the block?

Thanks in advance if anybody can help---I appreciate it!---B
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Note that overhead height is key.

Drain as much trans fluid out of the AT as possible and use an old transmission yoke at the output shaft to prevent AT fluid spillage during removal.

Hat and music are essential.

Good luck
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 12:58 PM
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1) Since I'm pulling them both as one unit---what do I need to unhook on the c4?...I'd prefer to keep as many of the connections untouched as possible and keep it tethered to the engine but not sure what still has to be unhooked to get it out.
driveshaft- plug the tail end of the trans or have a lake! cooler lines, shifter linkage, and neutral safety switch wiring.
2) On the engine leveler, where are most people attaching the leveler (which holes)?
front and back of heads
3)Anybody know what bolt size I might need to use with the leveler on the block?
most likely a 7/16" depending on what hole you use..

Thanks in advance if anybody can help---I appreciate it!---B[/QUOTE]

Working on old cars teaches us patience... and every curse word imaginable!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 01:02 PM
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Chock the wheels since you'll be releasing the tension on the E-Brake when you drop the cross member.

Remove the bolts from the transmission to the cross member and drop the cross member, remove driveshaft and put a plug in it to keep it from leaking tranny fluid all over the place. If no plug, wrap the tail shaft in plastic wrap and put a plastic back over it and secure it with duct tape. Disconnect the lines to the radiator and the line to the vacuum modulator. Don't forget remove the shifter lever and speedo cable and the unplug the backup light/neutral safety switch plug. The filler tube should be bolted to the head. so that can stay and remove the engine ground strap from the fire wall.

Radiator should be out too.

Have you disconnected the exhaust pipes from the manifolds?

Have I forgotten anything.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 01:03 PM
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Remember to disconnect the speedometer cable, the tranny cooling lines, The shifter rod to the floor shifter, the kickdown cable if it is still connected, the tranny crossmember, make sure that you clear the emergency brake cable when hoisting it out. Remove the driveshaft and put another yoke in the tail of the tranny to prevent spillage, or take the one off of your driveshaft and use that. Remove the fan, all pulleys if possible, and radiator so that you'll have enough clearance in front. With the leveler, if you can remove the valve covers, use the most forward and rearward, outer head bolts for the chain links. And of course the exhaust.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 02:46 PM
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Remove your distributor, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, fan, fan spacer, and other items mentioned above.

I use an engine plate and hook the lift to front area:



I've never needed a leveler just take it slow. Also watch out for catching the brake line on firewall.
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Last edited by Fastback97; 05-03-2016 at 02:49 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Great advice guys! Thanks so much! Doesn't seem to bad of a job....b
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 10:08 AM
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I've always removed hood radiator, headers and pt the front end on jack stands to get a better angle going in/ out. You also have to take a pic when the motor reaches it's apex.


Last edited by GT350R Klone; 05-04-2016 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Pic
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 10:13 AM
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I have found some levelers to be more of a hassle sometimes. You may find it hanging on the firewall keeping you from getting enough tilt
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 10:18 AM
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I never have had used a leveler. Just bolt chain to the exhaust bolt holes on one of the holes in the front of the heads.And I have done at least a hundred in my days
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 06:34 PM
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Just curious, why do you want to pull it out connected rather than engine and transmission separately?

66 Fastback Signalflare
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT350R Klone View Post
I've always removed hood radiator, headers and pt the front end on jack stands to get a better angle going in/ out. You also have to take a pic when the motor reaches it's apex.

Yup I like to raise the front-end as well

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastback97 View Post
Remove your distributor, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, fan, fan spacer, and other items mentioned above.

I use an engine plate and hook the lift to front area:



I've never needed a leveler just take it slow. Also watch out for catching the brake line on firewall.
I wouldn't trust just an engine plate when pulling both engine and tranny together. I'd still bolt a chain to the front and rear of the heads crisscrossing the block as added safety.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 12:57 AM
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I wouldn't trust just an engine plate when pulling both engine and tranny together. I'd still bolt a chain to the front and rear of the heads crisscrossing the block as added safety.
People use them on engines a lot heavier than the SBF.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 01:29 AM
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People use them on engines a lot heavier than the SBF.
I know. I'm just paranoid and am skiddish about trusting something that only has a single point of failure. I like backup.
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