Rear sway bar on 67 coupe - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Rear sway bar on 67 coupe

I'm not even sure if I'm going to run this or not but it came with our suspension kit so I'm mocking it up. Some say it helps a lot with axle wrap... anyway this is the only way I can see it mounting but I'll have to modify the park brake brackets a little for clearance. Is this the correct way?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 09:14 PM
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Yes, that looks correct. I run a 1 1/8" front sway bar and a rear like that one. 720 coils in front and five leafs in back. No body roll and damn stiff, just the way I like it. Had a blow out front tire once, car didn't even set down on it at all hardly. Car just pulled a bit to one side. And yes, in my experience the rear sway bar does stop wheel hop. Probably because only one side hops, not both. I had under rider traction bars also, took them off because not needed. Nay sayers, have at it! And yes, I have run this with a serious street cam at 400 plus HP.

'67 coupe, 390, 4spd.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 09:37 PM
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Yes, that looks correct. I run a 1 1/8" front sway bar and a rear like that one. 720 coils in front and five leafs in back. No body roll and damn stiff, just the way I like it. Had a blow out front tire once, car didn't even set down on it at all hardly. Car just pulled a bit to one side. And yes, in my experience the rear sway bar does stop wheel hop. Probably because only one side hops, not both. I had under rider traction bars also, took them off because not needed. Nay sayers, have at it! And yes, I have run this with a serious street cam at 400 plus HP.
A sway bar might help some but it isn't going to fix the issue of wheel hop when you have worn leaf springs and other components with a high hp engine. Ask me how I know. I just went through the same thing in my 1965 fastback. I had a 3/4" rear sway bar in the car with original leaf springs and kyb shocks and had horrible wheel hop with a 351w that has 450hp/tq. It took new leaf springs and bilstein shocks, both from Maier racing to solve the issue. I spoke with Mike and Charles at maier and neither of them said that you really need a rear sway bar and that a lot of people don't use them
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 10:33 PM
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I am no expert and I simply state my experience. I did install new everything including leafs when I restored my car. With sway bar, no hop, without sway bar, huge hop.

'67 coupe, 390, 4spd.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 12:03 AM
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I am no expert and I simply state my experience. I did install new everything including leafs when I restored my car. With sway bar, no hop, without sway bar, huge hop.
Hmm, what kind of springs do you have? I took my rear sway bar off to see the difference in handling per the request of maier racing and I don't have any wheel hop
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 02:02 AM
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I had one on my car for 4 years and it's been off the car for the past two years. Honestly, I never saw much of a difference with it on or off. I guess with it on, the body was more likely to stay "square" around corners - but as others have noted, with good leaf springs that issue becomes moot. I pulled it a couple years ago because it was banging into a fuel line, and never really felt the need to put it back on.

I think that rear sway bars really tend to become more of an issue with high-torque cars. I've seen a mixed bag of results in both directions from cars on the upper end of the spectrum. But with stock cars, probably doesn't matter that much


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 06:29 AM
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I removed my rear sway bar from my coupe as I found it handled better without it.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 09:06 AM
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On a leaf spring axle you really don't need a rear sway bar or at least not as much as a coil spring axle. The reason is, as the body rolls in a it twists the leaf spring front to back like a torsion bar. The leaf spring by nature wants to keep the axle parallel to the body. Even the stiffness of the front bushing on the leaf spring has an effect on body roll. It's not uncommon to use aluminum bushings for anti roll.Coils don't have the directional stability of a leaf spring. That's why there are trailing arms and sway bars.

My personal feeling is you don't want too big of a front bar to the point it lifts the inside tire. It means you have placed all the load and then some on one tire. You could be overloading the weight capacity of the tire as well as over heating it. You want both tires working. I don't care if there is some body roll. Besides the car rides better and is more settled over bumps and pot holes.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 09:53 AM
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I had bought a rear sway bar for my '67 that was off a '69 Boss 302 car. I never put it on because all the feedback I got was "it'll create over steer". So I sold it. My '67 is just a weekend car, no racing.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 11:08 AM
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I do not know which leafs I have. I restored my car about 23 24 years ago. The Mustang parts shop had their own race team and I ordered parts for road race and stiff. Leafs are standard eye. Given they gave me 720 coils, the leafs are probably pretty stiff.

'67 coupe, 390, 4spd.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 02:36 PM
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I have no use for a rear anti-roll bar in my '67 (with the 8 point rollcage).
Nor my more stock '69.
I'm all about dual anti-roll bars in my F150 with the towing package though. I love them.
If I were to get sporty with SWMBO's '86 Mustang some sort of upgrade rear anti-roll bar would setainly be on the shopping list. If she didn't kill me first. (Stop hotrodding my car!)
Sway/anti-roll bars are tuning devices. Many folks like them on the rear, many don't. It's about what you like and how the car feels best to you. You may never know if you don't try. I'd autocross the car or something, then add the bar and autocross some more. Plus day to day driving.
Rear anti-roll bars contribute to oversteer by nature. That's not the real issue a lot of people have with them. With some chassis setups they can give you "snap oversteer" when pressing the car to its handling limits. Snap oversteer is when everything is cool zooming around a curve and suddenly you've spun off the road with no warning. Obviously this can make you unhappy real quick. With our pony cars many folks feel like they have a better feel of when they have reached the car's traction limit without a rear bar even though the bar might actually make the car corner a bit better. More or less. if you're not in the habit of canyon carving or autocrossing, realistically you aren't really to be pushing your car hard enough to really benefit from a rear bar. Usually.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 04:51 PM
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Every car is different and a sway bar is one tool to tune. I hit windy mountain curves hard and both front and back tires predictably start to slip at the same time. After 80,000 miles I have never lost control. No race track time, obviously!

'67 coupe, 390, 4spd.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly_H View Post
Honestly, I never saw much of a difference with it on or off.
Yeah, me too. I still have the 3/4" rear anti-roll bar on my L.A. street fighter '67. I have better things to do than to really deeply analyze whether this spirited street car would ride better without it.

To the OP - it must be nice working with all of those shiny new parts. Nice project you got there!

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