Overheating issue(s) - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Overheating issue(s)

I am having an issue with my 1967 289 that I haven't been able to resolve.

Awhile back my car started to overheat when being driven on the freeway. Found I had a coolant leak due to a bad thermostat housing and did a flush and replaced the housing.

Car still was overheating after the flush. So I pulled the radiator out and took it in to have it dipped and flow tested. It came back as clogged due to deposits and etc in it. Since it was an original 2 core I swapped it out for a 3 core champion aluminium radiator.

I am still having issues with it running hot. Right before it had a loss of coolant I installed a Edlebrock intake and a Demon carburetor. Right now there is no thermostat in the car, I have good flow with the new radiator. Timing is set as best as I can due to not having a marker on the block. Engine runs great, idles well, drives great just gets hot quickly.

Could this be an issue with timing and or fuel ratio? Any other thoughts or ideas?

1950 Chrysler New Yorker Newport (WIP)
1967 Ford Mustang 289-2V

Last edited by Frogprince; 06-23-2016 at 12:22 PM.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 12:27 PM
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You have to have a thermostat so put a thermostat in it... The coolant is flowing through the radiator so fast it doesn't have time to cool off...
This will cure one of your problems,,, not sure if another was caused by changing out the intake,,, but you've got to have a thermostat...
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 12:31 PM
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195F thermostat. Drill a small hole 5/32" in the flange of the thermostat so that it is in the flow of the water. Install thermostat so the hole is at 12 o'clock position in the housing. Best of luck.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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195F thermostat. Drill a small hole 5/32" in the flange of the thermostat so that it is in the flow of the water. Install thermostat so the hole is at 12 o'clock position in the housing. Best of luck.
Never heard of drilling a hole into the thermostat? Is this to allow a little flow before it opens?

1950 Chrysler New Yorker Newport (WIP)
1967 Ford Mustang 289-2V
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:07 PM
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I suggest the motorcraft RT1139 thermostat. It's already got a vent hole.


Install tips:


Related discussion: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...tat-289-a.html

'66 Fastback 289 C-code auto, older restoration, sold
'03 Mach 1 manual, bought new, sold
'79 Notchback 5.0 auto, bought new, sold long ago

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:15 PM
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Other possibilities:
-- Bad radiator cap (reduced pressure = lower boiling point)
-- Overfilled radiator with no overflow tank
-- Missing fan shroud
-- Bad temp sensor with stock temp gauge (how do you know it's overheating?)
-- Bad water pump (leaking thru weep hole is a symptom)

'66 Fastback 289 C-code auto, older restoration, sold
'03 Mach 1 manual, bought new, sold
'79 Notchback 5.0 auto, bought new, sold long ago

Favorite mod: '07 Mustang seats in my '66 Fastback

Last edited by V8 Junkie; 06-23-2016 at 01:19 PM.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Frogprince View Post
Never heard of drilling a hole into the thermostat? Is this to allow a little flow before it opens?
Helps let air pockets out during the filling process. Also helps to jack the front of the car up to burp the system and make sure you remove all air. Trapped air turns to steam which can lead to overheating as well.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by V8 Junkie View Post
Other possibilities:
-- Bad radiator cap (reduced pressure = lower boiling point)
-- Overfilled radiator with no overflow tank
-- Missing fan shroud
-- Bad temp sensor with stock temp gauge (how do you know it's overheating?)
-- Bad water pump (leaking thru weep hole is a symptom)
New Radiator Cap with the new radiator. I have another brand new one that i can try.

I don't have an overflow tank just the hose off the side of the radiator. Have an inch from the top of the tank.

Don't have a fan shroud. Don't think I could get one to fit around the new radiator. The old one didn't overheat till it got clogged. without the shroud.

New Temp Sensor but with the old unit it boiled over twice. New one I haven't let it get that hot as of yet. Just going off the gauge and praying it isn't a head gasket or something.

Replaced the water pump last year. No fluid leaks since I replaced the thermostat housing. I know I have good thermostat so I will put that in this evening.

1950 Chrysler New Yorker Newport (WIP)
1967 Ford Mustang 289-2V

Last edited by Frogprince; 06-23-2016 at 01:29 PM.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:24 PM
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I have that problem too where the temp would rise to around 210-220 when I'm driving on some freeways, not all freeways but I don't drive freeways that much. I don't remember having this issue before I fixed the gap on the rear of my hood. It used to sit about 1-1 1/2" taller in the rear. Maybe that helped with cooling down the engine? Recently replaced the radiator but haven't really driven much on the freeway to know if the new radiator helped with the temp.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:35 PM
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I have that problem too where the temp would rise to around 210-220 when I'm driving on some freeways, not all freeways but I don't drive freeways that much. I don't remember having this issue before I fixed the gap on the rear of my hood. It used to sit about 1-1 1/2" taller in the rear. Maybe that helped with cooling down the engine? Recently replaced the radiator but haven't really driven much on the freeway to know if the new radiator helped with the temp.

Do you have the SS Spring in the lower radiator hose to prevent it from collapsing at highway speeds? That could be the issue.


Do you have a filter in the upper radiator hose to trap any particles the engine might throw so it does not get put into the radiator? I'm using a Tefba filter in the upper radiator hose. It has a SS screen, and once a year I drain out a bit of coolant, remove the top, take out the screen remove any debris and put it back in. Easy Peasy.
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have the SS Spring in the lower radiator hose to prevent it from collapsing at highway speeds? That could be the issue.


Do you have a filter in the upper radiator hose to trap any particles the engine might throw so it does not get put into the radiator? I'm using a Tefba filter in the upper radiator hose. It has a SS screen, and once a year I drain out a bit of coolant, remove the top, take out the screen remove any debris and put it back in. Easy Peasy.
No spring in the lower hose. Wasn't one in there when I swapped out hoses with the new pump. Will get one on order for the piece of mind.

Also been looking at a filter. Just haven't pulled the trigger as of yet.

1950 Chrysler New Yorker Newport (WIP)
1967 Ford Mustang 289-2V
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:58 PM
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+1 on the lower hose spring. Also check for a bad vacuum advance diaphragm or faulty DVCV (distributor vacuum control valve), if equipped. Yes, put the thermostat back in. It won't cure your overheating issue but it should be there to maintain a minimum operating temperature.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GearHeadPeter View Post
Do you have the SS Spring in the lower radiator hose to prevent it from collapsing at highway speeds? That could be the issue.


Do you have a filter in the upper radiator hose to trap any particles the engine might throw so it does not get put into the radiator? I'm using a Tefba filter in the upper radiator hose. It has a SS screen, and once a year I drain out a bit of coolant, remove the top, take out the screen remove any debris and put it back in. Easy Peasy.
I have the spring in the old hose and the new one came with the spring also. Don't have a radiator filter. Don't think that's the cause of the heating on the freeway for me since temp is usually around 180 on the street. Did look into the Tefba filter but wasn't ready to spend the $70

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 02:58 PM
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you mentioned the timing briefly, don't overlook it mine ran hot until I got the timing right

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 03:15 PM
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You do need a thermostat - they're there for a reason!

I also think it may be timing related. You really need to find a way to mark it so you can determine how much advance you're getting "all-in" (3000 rpm and above). It may be that you have too much advance or not enough advance at higher rpms, which would cause the car to overheat.

Have you verified that the carburetor is running right at higher speeds? If the car is running lean under heavier throttle, that could also contribute to higher engine temps. The Demon carburetors frequently need changes in jetting to really dial them in right, IIRC.

The last thing I would check is the intake installation. Are any cooling ports blocked off?


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